BalsaDust
Moderator
Yes those MKS are very nice. The KST makes a little noise as I had them in my Vortex 3 but they are way better than the JR's
The 'What did you do in your workshop tonight?' thread
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Yes those MKS are very nice. The KST makes a little noise as I had them in my Vortex 3 but they are way better than the JR's
BalsaDust
Moderator
Well @AKNick post have giving me the urge to work on some DLG's.
Start of the upgrades for my Flitz Classic. KST X08's will replace the old noisy JR servos. Also new Carbon tail to replace the beat up green fiberglass ones.
I got these tails for a buddy who had ordered them for his Flitz 2. The elevator has the one spot where the skin lifted from the foam so he got them to send a new set and I got these from him for cheap. Mind you my flitz is technically a flitz 1 so they are slightly different namely just a touch smaller though the actual moving surface is a little bigger.
One other difference here on the horizontal is the holes are off for the mount on mine (well the front one is off. It will be filled with black tinted epoxy and redrilled in the proper location.
These original tails look in decent shape in this picture but I promise they are pretty beat up.
Old JR's. 1 they are noisy. 2 I never liked the way they where installed being tilted a bit inside the pod. Also they are literally glued in so they are proving to be a bit tough to remove.
With just the new elevator on the tail is already looking better.
Start of the upgrades for my Flitz Classic. KST X08's will replace the old noisy JR servos. Also new Carbon tail to replace the beat up green fiberglass ones.
I got these tails for a buddy who had ordered them for his Flitz 2. The elevator has the one spot where the skin lifted from the foam so he got them to send a new set and I got these from him for cheap. Mind you my flitz is technically a flitz 1 so they are slightly different namely just a touch smaller though the actual moving surface is a little bigger.
One other difference here on the horizontal is the holes are off for the mount on mine (well the front one is off. It will be filled with black tinted epoxy and redrilled in the proper location.
These original tails look in decent shape in this picture but I promise they are pretty beat up.
Old JR's. 1 they are noisy. 2 I never liked the way they where installed being tilted a bit inside the pod. Also they are literally glued in so they are proving to be a bit tough to remove.
With just the new elevator on the tail is already looking better.
BalsaDust
Moderator
A buddy brought me his 1M DLG for repairs. he botched a catch when bringing it in and it landed on its tail snapping it in half. Isn't that paint on my truck hood in amazing condition?
First order of business is find something that fits inside the boom. Carbon fiber arrow shaft to the rescue. Don't want to add a ton of weight to the tail of the plane so only a 3" long piece of the arrow shaft was used.
Since the boom is oval and the arrow is round I needed to fill the gap on the sides. some delicate shaping of a couple pieces of 1/16" balsa did the trick.
Dry fit looks great.
Kind of blurry but its nice a straight so it should work great. Waiting on epoxy to show up to do the actual glue up though. Once its all done some carbon tow will be laminated to the outside of the pod.
First order of business is find something that fits inside the boom. Carbon fiber arrow shaft to the rescue. Don't want to add a ton of weight to the tail of the plane so only a 3" long piece of the arrow shaft was used.
Since the boom is oval and the arrow is round I needed to fill the gap on the sides. some delicate shaping of a couple pieces of 1/16" balsa did the trick.
Dry fit looks great.
Kind of blurry but its nice a straight so it should work great. Waiting on epoxy to show up to do the actual glue up though. Once its all done some carbon tow will be laminated to the outside of the pod.
BalsaDust
Moderator
More work completed.
Got those pesky servos out. You can see the remnants of how they where mounted. I will be sanding it all away for the install of the new gear. The red color is from trying to use some SIG CA debonder but it wouldn't get down in as far as I would have liked.
Those pesky servos. Nothing wrong with them just noisy. They may get reused at some point.
New KST X08's mocked in place. I think they will end up being mounted in line instead of side by side. Haven't decided yet just depends on the space I need.
New carbon tails mocked in place. Rudder was a bear to get off as well without damaging the boom underneath of it but I got it off and still in one piece just in case I need it one day.
Got those pesky servos out. You can see the remnants of how they where mounted. I will be sanding it all away for the install of the new gear. The red color is from trying to use some SIG CA debonder but it wouldn't get down in as far as I would have liked.
Those pesky servos. Nothing wrong with them just noisy. They may get reused at some point.
New KST X08's mocked in place. I think they will end up being mounted in line instead of side by side. Haven't decided yet just depends on the space I need.
New carbon tails mocked in place. Rudder was a bear to get off as well without damaging the boom underneath of it but I got it off and still in one piece just in case I need it one day.
BalsaDust
Moderator
Getting closer.
The angled mount works best but the tray was still overall a little too wide.
They sit down low enough that the hatch will pop right on.
Back into inventor I went. I narrowed the whole tray slightly. Decided the rear tab on the left was useless so I cut it off to remove dead weight. Lastly I wanted to be able to slide the tray a little more forward but I still needed to be able to get my battery in and out. so I rounded the nose. This should allow me to move it another .25" forward in the pod which doesn't sound like a lot but I want to be able to remove the 7 grams of lead I had in the nose originally to get it to balance.
Here is the new tray printed. For fun I also modeled in a raised text emboss with what servos this tray is designed around.
Hopefully tomorrow morning I can actually get this tray glued into the pod.
The angled mount works best but the tray was still overall a little too wide.
They sit down low enough that the hatch will pop right on.
Back into inventor I went. I narrowed the whole tray slightly. Decided the rear tab on the left was useless so I cut it off to remove dead weight. Lastly I wanted to be able to slide the tray a little more forward but I still needed to be able to get my battery in and out. so I rounded the nose. This should allow me to move it another .25" forward in the pod which doesn't sound like a lot but I want to be able to remove the 7 grams of lead I had in the nose originally to get it to balance.
Here is the new tray printed. For fun I also modeled in a raised text emboss with what servos this tray is designed around.
Hopefully tomorrow morning I can actually get this tray glued into the pod.
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
Nice! I was planning on the canted servo install, but it forced me to put the rx in the back and limited my battery size install. The Flitz2 tends to come out a bit tail heavy in the 75mm range from what I've been reading (should fly best at 68-70 depending on wind), and the Original Flitz has a bit wider pod. One way to gain a couple mm is to grind off a servo mount tab at a 45 where it's closest to the fuselage. From what I'm reading it seems like 12-14mm each direction is good for the rudder and elevator. Do you remember what your deflections were prior?
BalsaDust
Moderator
I don't remember exactly what they where. I know the Rudder I had maxed as much as I could get. Elevator I went with max up without it hitting the boom and then as much down as it can get as you want it to rotate quickly at the top of your launch. Here are some pictures of my buddy I fly with Flitz 2 where he modded his MKS servos to fit fit by side. You can see one has been ground and the other hasn't. Its pretty common to have your RX behind the servos and thats where mine will remain in this rebuild. I currently have a 700mah like pictured in mine. Its rather large so it keeps me from being able to put my RX in the nose. If I switch to a gum stick style pack I might be able to though.
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AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
@BalsaDust
you’ve inspired me through my inspiration that inspired you to rethink what I had previously thunk. ROFL!!
I think I’d rather use tungsten putty than that 1k LiPo so I can get the throws. Measured 8mm total throws at 140% travel from the servo arm verses 6mm at 100%. With the arm being a tad shorter than the control rod I don’t think I’d even get optimal throws. More reading I’ve found that more people prefer all you can get on the elevator for pushing over at the top and up for snap flaps. Man these simple dlgs are more complicated than I thought!!
Here are my two options and I think I’m going with the canted servos now. I’ll just need to be a bit more careful with my battery usage and swap them out. I’m finding with my mini dart a 20min flying session may only eat 30-40mAh tops.
you’ve inspired me through my inspiration that inspired you to rethink what I had previously thunk. ROFL!!
I think I’d rather use tungsten putty than that 1k LiPo so I can get the throws. Measured 8mm total throws at 140% travel from the servo arm verses 6mm at 100%. With the arm being a tad shorter than the control rod I don’t think I’d even get optimal throws. More reading I’ve found that more people prefer all you can get on the elevator for pushing over at the top and up for snap flaps. Man these simple dlgs are more complicated than I thought!!
Here are my two options and I think I’m going with the canted servos now. I’ll just need to be a bit more careful with my battery usage and swap them out. I’m finding with my mini dart a 20min flying session may only eat 30-40mAh tops.