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Scale Wendell Hostetler 30% PA-28 Cherokee Build

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Got the tail cone pulled out of the mold, took some effort but it is out. Made a 1/4" mounting plate for the elevator servo that also locates the tail cone and will also serve has the blocks for the mounting screws. Had to come up with a Rocket City horn out of the stash for the linkage. Pushed a piece of 5/8" dowel into the center of the stab tube then drilled and tapped for 8-32. Need 12 degrees travel both up and down. If needed I can add a counter weight to the linkage just like the full scale however I don't expect it will be necessary. It's about time to start making the tail plane parts, haven't cut foam quite a few years, can't wait.
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That is nicely done. Can elaborate more on how you fastened the 8-32 rod to the tube. Did you glue some wood into the inside of the tube at that location.
 

TonyHallo

150cc
A 5/8" diameter wood dowel is a snug fit in the tube, a 2" long piece was pushed into the middle of the CF tube. The hole was drilled in the mill after finding the center. Before tapping the hole was sealed on one side with tape and filled with thin CA, then tapped. An 8-32 bottom tap just touches the opposite end of the tube so the last thread was made with the all thread. On final assembly the all thread will get nutted on each side.
Had the first filler coat about 90% complete on the canopy plug then ran out of cream hardener so started cutting parts for the stab. The ribs are sized for 1/8" sheeting, using 1/16", glued two laser cut ribs together then laminated 1/16" ply on each to get the right size pattern, glued up the tip blocks and cut the airfoil shape. Thought about making fiberglass wing tips but the balsa provided is nice and lite so there would be no saving and a lot of work.

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Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
66 F in the burgh today, got several coats of primer on the plug. More pin holes to fill and block sand with 150, more primer. Can't tell you how many hours I have in this.
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Thanks for doing this. It is very informative and I am being educated on how to make a canopy which I have never done. Thanks.
Why did you not make it from foam block and sand it to shape.
 

TonyHallo

150cc
Since I had the formers in the short kit, I thought it would easier and I wanted to use polyester resin and Bondo for finishing. Had a bunch of old stuff I wanted to use up, ended up throwing all the old resin away anyway. Yesterday I was mixing 20+ year old polyester finishing putty. The only material purchased is glass cloth, tube of cream hardener and resin, everything was old stuff that needed cleaned up. Found a quart of Sig polyester resin unopened from 2003, it was crystalized!
 

TonyHallo

150cc
Put some black Rusto-leum as a guide coat, sand until it is gone. Only had 4 pin holes to fill since there was about 6 coats pf primer on it. Ready for more primer but it is raining today, maybe Saturday. 2 or 3 coats and block with 320 and it will be ready for paint.
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TonyHallo

150cc
Started cutting the stabalator core, cut the block to size then cut the hole for the sleeves. The stab will be made in one piece then cut in half. Using pink 2# foam for the core for a couple of reasons, have it left over from a bathroom remodel and it doesn't melt at Monolote ironing temperatures. It will take approximately six 3" x 32" sheets of balsa to cover the stabalator, using 1/16" sheeting rather than 1/8" as show on the plans so saving 3 sheets of balsa at 25 grams per sheet or 75 grams. The core is approximately .1 cubic foot so it should weight about 3.2 ounces or 91 grams, so it is close.

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TonyHallo

150cc
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Making sleeves and skins. Bought excess sheets and when through and weighted the sheets, range 12 to 24 grams, picked out 6 sheets 13 to 14 grams each. Was able to joint the sheets without edge truing, big plus, I hate doing that. Glued with white Titebond, I read that so people tape the top of the joint as well, tried it this time. Have one sleeve curing, need one more. Might be vacuum bagging tomorrow.
 
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