IMAC Dalton Yak 54, 38% please submit suggestions here....
- Thread starter orthobird
- Start date
Quick question for you all...
Does anyone know, for the DA 200, the plate has the two opening in the back that is narrower than the front opening.
Question is, I want to know what option for muffler system.
I would consider either stock mufflers or canisters.
But if went with rear dump canisters, I know that the stinger will not line up with those holes, unless i cut the header.
Anyone know, do both headers need to be same length with canisters? I know with tuned pipes, this is a known. But with canisters., i do not know the answer. I do have two airplanes with canisters, one is a 200 the other is a 150, and both of them, the headers are same length, and the exit of the canisters, meaning the stingers, are staggered.
Now, with stock muffs, my only question is, being this is a Yak, do the stock mufflers go down deep enough to clear the bottom, of the cowl?
Does anyone know, for the DA 200, the plate has the two opening in the back that is narrower than the front opening.
Question is, I want to know what option for muffler system.
I would consider either stock mufflers or canisters.
But if went with rear dump canisters, I know that the stinger will not line up with those holes, unless i cut the header.
Anyone know, do both headers need to be same length with canisters? I know with tuned pipes, this is a known. But with canisters., i do not know the answer. I do have two airplanes with canisters, one is a 200 the other is a 150, and both of them, the headers are same length, and the exit of the canisters, meaning the stingers, are staggered.
Now, with stock muffs, my only question is, being this is a Yak, do the stock mufflers go down deep enough to clear the bottom, of the cowl?
capthis
70cc twin V2
I personally like the aluminum gear as it bends and doesn't break like the carbon does. If you do bend it it's true the paint can flake off, but it's easy to touch back up. I get lazy and don't even paint the gear some times! 
I would think you would want both header lengths to be the same whether you run cans or pipes. If you are used to flying cans or pipes, you probably won't like stock mufflers as they are much louder.
I really like the shape of that gear plus it's been lightened!
I would think you would want both header lengths to be the same whether you run cans or pipes. If you are used to flying cans or pipes, you probably won't like stock mufflers as they are much louder.
I really like the shape of that gear plus it's been lightened!
Here is my dilemma. And i need to be very careful here.
I want to beef up the landing gear area. And I do not know where to put the angled aluminum.
I have ordered 1/8 " which is 1/2"
The ones in the picture are 1/16", which will not be used.
Anyone have any suggestions. Considering the fact, that i will be installing canisters.
I want to beef up the landing gear area. And I do not know where to put the angled aluminum.
I have ordered 1/8 " which is 1/2"
The ones in the picture are 1/16", which will not be used.
Anyone have any suggestions. Considering the fact, that i will be installing canisters.
Dirt Doctor
50cc
Cam, I have used another 1/2" x 1/2" oak piece instead of the Al I used 24hr epoxy to glue them together - one of top of the other. I believe the glue holds better to wood than it does to Al but who really knows? Also, if you have to glue your canister supports in then you will have wood to wood glue joints AND they are easier to dremel to the correct size if need be.
Dirt Doctor
50cc
Cam, I have used another 1/2" x 1/2" oak piece instead of the Al I used 24hr epoxy to glue them together - one of top of the other. I believe the glue holds better to wood than it does to Al but who really knows? Also, if you have to glue your canister supports in then you will have wood to wood glue joints AND they are easier to dremel to the correct size if need be.