3D Fibertech Hyperlite Slick.....sort of build thread.
- Thread starter Terryscustom
- Start date
Terryscustom
640cc Uber Pimp
Yup, as noted before pants and gear cuffs will get painted to match the scheme, but not till the white crap starts to fall and it's too cold to fly.
Bdegan
50cc
Hi Terry,
We spoke about this the other day. Here are some photos of the cross bracing I did on the top of the motor box and bottom where the servo mounting plate is. The top carbon rods didn't stay attached. Not enough bonding area and have been replaced with with 3/8 balsa square stock.
You have added a piece to the top. But adding a piece across the bottom helps some more for side to side movement.
The up and down movement I think is flex along the bottom of the firewall. The photo attached where I circled is where mine was flexing. Clear to see why. Because I am running the zdz with rear mounted carb. I had to remove more material to clear the carb.
I think because the bottom motor box plate meets there at less then 90 degrees. It allows that area to flex in and out and the motor moves up and down.
I hysol'd a piece of square carbon tube inside the firewall in the location. Helped consderably to strengthen that spot due to the wood removed .
3728=1597-2014-08-13 06.39.37.jpg
3728=1598-20140208_163124.jpg
We spoke about this the other day. Here are some photos of the cross bracing I did on the top of the motor box and bottom where the servo mounting plate is. The top carbon rods didn't stay attached. Not enough bonding area and have been replaced with with 3/8 balsa square stock.
You have added a piece to the top. But adding a piece across the bottom helps some more for side to side movement.
The up and down movement I think is flex along the bottom of the firewall. The photo attached where I circled is where mine was flexing. Clear to see why. Because I am running the zdz with rear mounted carb. I had to remove more material to clear the carb.
I think because the bottom motor box plate meets there at less then 90 degrees. It allows that area to flex in and out and the motor moves up and down.
I hysol'd a piece of square carbon tube inside the firewall in the location. Helped consderably to strengthen that spot due to the wood removed .
3728=1597-2014-08-13 06.39.37.jpg
O
Ohio AV8TOR
So awesome Terry, I sure miss scratch building. This is actually what the hobby used to be like. Well done.
Terryscustom
640cc Uber Pimp
I ended up going with Balsa, the mufflers on the DLE120 are pretty good sized and come close to the opening. I did not want to use foam and then have a melty nasty mess inside my new cowl. I will likely add to this baffling across the top and bottom as time allows, but this will get me in the air. This effectively takes about 1/3 of the opening that was going towards nothing and aims it towards the heads. That was the biggest concern, without anything the air would just take the path of least resistance and skirt by.
Process:
- Cut and shape 1/16 soft balsa
- Wet the balsa and wrap it around a can, and quick dry it with a heat gun to keep the basic shape
- Sand and fit some more then harden the balsa with thin CA to keep it's shape permenantly
- Install with thick CA, followed by a large bead of Goop, then I smeared a thin layer of goop all on the backside of the baffles to help them hold up to vibration.
3879=1644-image001.jpg
Terryscustom
640cc Uber Pimp
[SIZE= 14px]OK......drum roll please! Final weight with batteries and canopy, everything but gas........[/SIZE][SIZE= 16px]28lb 1.9oz!
[/SIZE]
[SIZE= 12px]Also, the CG is nearly perfect and batteries will be about by my receiver, but I'm going to ad at least 2 oz. to the engine box by partially sheeting the top and sides. After looking further the slight movement seems to be coming from the top two rails are bending and twisting, so we're going to take care of that.
I actually purposely used heavier / stronger wood on my tail surfaces and did no coring back there. Ideally they would move the wing on this plane slightly back, maybe 1.5", build the engine box a little stronger and core the tail feathers and an upper 26lb range would be easy even with no effort. I did use vacuum bagging for sheeting which in itself saves on weight over the poly glue method.
Maiden soon......maybe later today if I can get my work done.[/SIZE]
[/SIZE]
[SIZE= 12px]Also, the CG is nearly perfect and batteries will be about by my receiver, but I'm going to ad at least 2 oz. to the engine box by partially sheeting the top and sides. After looking further the slight movement seems to be coming from the top two rails are bending and twisting, so we're going to take care of that.
I actually purposely used heavier / stronger wood on my tail surfaces and did no coring back there. Ideally they would move the wing on this plane slightly back, maybe 1.5", build the engine box a little stronger and core the tail feathers and an upper 26lb range would be easy even with no effort. I did use vacuum bagging for sheeting which in itself saves on weight over the poly glue method.
Maiden soon......maybe later today if I can get my work done.[/SIZE]
Bdegan
50cc
Funny you mention moving the wing tube back.
Kevin ' s original red one has the wing back 1 inch or so compared to ours.
He had to push his batteries was back to balance. So he moved the wing tube forward an inch.
In talking with Kevin. We though with the light weigh zdz 112 I was using I might have trouble balancing. Might end up tail heavy. So I went to town lightening the tail. And then ended pushing my batteries back as far as I could reach. Then I ended up having to add 8 more ozs to the tail. It's killing having to have added that.
If the wing tube was 1.5 inches back, all the lead could come out and my batteries could move forward again.
Kevin ' s original red one has the wing back 1 inch or so compared to ours.
He had to push his batteries was back to balance. So he moved the wing tube forward an inch.
In talking with Kevin. We though with the light weigh zdz 112 I was using I might have trouble balancing. Might end up tail heavy. So I went to town lightening the tail. And then ended pushing my batteries back as far as I could reach. Then I ended up having to add 8 more ozs to the tail. It's killing having to have added that.
If the wing tube was 1.5 inches back, all the lead could come out and my batteries could move forward again.