Glassing and Painting techniques

[Jetpainter]

Thanks for that Jetpainter! Your work really does seem to support the idea that the applicator has more to do with success than the application.

Can I pick your brain a little? You mention in the results the use of hairspray. Are you using it as a sealer on the bare balsa or as a method of holding the cloth in place? Or for something else entirely?

TIA, Dave

The hairspray was sprayed on the wood first and used to try and keep the resin from soaking into the wood and save a little weight.

 

[Jlc]

I'm getting ready for my first attempt at laying down cloth. Is there a specific method for overlap and what about the leading edges on the aoirfoil to get it to lay smooth?

 

[Jetpainter]

I'm getting ready for my first attempt at laying down cloth. Is there a specific method for overlap and what about the leading edges on the aoirfoil to get it to lay smooth?

I always did the leading edges similar to how you do Monocote. Do the bottom first, wrapping around the leading edge a bit. Let that cure, then sand it, being very careful not to hurt the balsa on top where the wrap around stops. You really don't need to make that perfectly smooth at this point. When you do the top, slightly wrap over the edge onto the bottom. After it cures you can sand everything smooth before the second coat of resin.

The edges of cloth are hard to cut straight and smooth so it may look a little rough before sanding sometimes, but it all sands out nice and smooth.

 

[dhal22]

The hairspray was sprayed on the wood first and used to try and keep the resin from soaking into the wood and save a little weight.

I always used hairspray for holding the glass down on the wood. have not considered it for sealing wood.

 

[Pittsflyboy]

Great thread

 

[MattyMatt]

I always used hairspray for holding the glass down on the wood. have not considered it for sealing wood.

hairspray is just a clear lacquer spray... at least the cheap stuff!

Great thread... I just saw this, and agree with most of the stuff said. For the hobbiest, especially painting a few small parts, a water separator at the compressor and a descant filter will work fine. If you spray a bunch, then you will get water in the lines, but for most cowl, canopy/hatch, wheel pant jobs... this will be fine.

I also use the Nason/Chromabase products. They work great.

 

[dhal22]

I will check out the Nason products.

 

[jhelber08]

Need some advice. I'm a noob when it comes to painting or any kind of airplane finishing work for that matter. I'm getting ready to recover my slick and I basically want to change the orange on the canopy and cowl from orange to red. As for the cowl, I want to keep all the other colors and only change the orange. Can you pro's give me a few tips? Do I need to strip all the paint, the prime and paint or can I just sand and re-paint. Please explain it to me like I'm 4.

 

[tylerzx9r]

Explain Like your 4? I know your more capable than that! I myself would sand it with something fine like 600 or 800 grit and just paint over the top, as long as you do not sand completely through anyplace. This way you do not have a ton of build up!

 

[Terryscustom]

I have repaired / painted just portions of ARF cowls before, and I will be curious to see what the pros say about my process:

- Wash the cowl to get rid of any and all dirt, bugs etc. I use wax and grease remover and do it multiple times (test the wax and grease remover first!!!!) Some ARF paints are so cheap that even rubbing alcohol takes it off!!!
- Mask with fineline and masking tape up to the edge where you want to sand and re-paint.
- Sand as per Tylers recommendations, just to scuff the surface.
- Remove the masking that was likely damaged during sanding.
- Wash the sanded area with wax and grease remover.
- Re-mask the area and shoot your basecoat color as per directions
- Remove masking and clear the entire cowl.