Scale 1/3 Scale Extra 330L Build.

[Snoopy1]

Well could not get it to work have to go with push/pull for the rudder. Would have to do to much cutting to get a nice straight run for the wires. Will add an extra Robert pin at the connection point to help absorb the loads. Also had to makeup a carbon push rod to fit the situation.
Just ailerons now and all the servos will be figured out.

"

 

[MuttsyFlyer]

@Snoopy1 It is looking good. Unfortunately I have just returned to Australia and my aircraft is in a container somewhere making its way back to me (I won't get it until March sometime) so I can't get any photos for you. I have just read over the bits that I missed while I was in transit and a couple of thoughts:
- I had no problem with lining up the cowl, but I did not use a cowl ring and I cut the cooling slot before mounting which allowed me to start at the top and wrap the cowl to get a good fit to the fuselage. This also helped with the alignment to the crankshaft.
- I would not glue the top of the motor box in, rather screw it in to be removable, it helps greatly with the access in that area. As I changed motors after having flown the plane for 3+ years, I ended up with the ignition under the top and cut some holes to get the leads out. Not pretty, but covered by the cowl and it works.
- I used two JR DS8611 servos for the rudder and mounted them in the rear. I had a heavy motor initially so was not worried. When I changed to the Turnigy 111 (which is considerably lighter and more powerful than the Fuji I started with) I had to adjust the position of my receiver batteries (moved them forward) but did not have any CG issues. I did not put an extra hinge near the rudder control horn, but that is a great idea. I also had my rudder servo arm pointed towards the bottom of the aircraft, but that was just my preference.

Glad you are back into the build. Let me know if you have any other questions that I might be able to help with.

 

[Snoopy1]

Thanks for all the info. Yes I agree the top motor box cover will be screwed down. While working on the gas tank installation I needed to get my hands inside from the front. I could not have installed the tank if I could not reach in from the front.
For now I will be installing one servo for the rudder and I believe it will be sufficient at over 500 oz-inch.
Thanks for the help and support

 

[TonyHallo]

Looks like Rocket City hardware. That was great stuff, sorry they are gone.

 

[Snoopy1]

@TonyHallo Yes you are correct, still had enough laying around to do the plane. It is pity they are not around any more , made some great stuff.

 

[Snoopy1]

Well the two ailerons near the wing tip need to be redone. Have to move them closer to the spar the MKS-777 servos are considerably deeper than a standard servo, they are sticking out the bottom by well over an 1/8 of an inch. What a pain.
So cut everything out clean it up and make two new servo holders. Lesson learned use the correct servo for building project.

 

[Snoopy1]

Ok after being a little annoyed about placing the aileron servo in the wrong location it is corrected and nobody will know after it is covered.

 

[TonyHallo]

Prototyping!

 

[Snoopy1]

Prototyping!

How true, you would know.

 

[Snoopy1]

All the servos are installed and fit nicely, will have to do a detailed AutoCAD drawing to make sure I get all the geometry correct for the wing servos.
Now to put some bass wood edging around the top of the motor box so that the screws have something to screw into. Once that is done then 50% diluted epoxy mix will be painted all over the front faces and the motor box.

Doesn’t look good for me the large roll of Ultracote has not shown up and we have just gone into a very strict lockdown, and the government is handing out fines all over place. Tried to phone the LHS and there no answer looks like are closed down.