110" TIMBER Assembly Thread

[john Derstine]

The motor in my Timber XPWR 40cc.
Look at page 19

I looked at this motor but getting one shipped to me is hard, based on your results I'll reinvestigate sources. looks to be the perfect size for e power as the motors I have been able to source are either overkill or not quite powerful enough for the kind of flying I envision. Thanks.

Edit: re looked at the x pwr 40, it's virtually the same diameter as the turingy 50cc. actually 2mm larger so it seems equivalent enough, and shipping from HK to me is free. heavier though, shouldn't make too much difference. At least I know I'm in the ballpark.

 

[Snoopy1]

I looked at this motor but getting one shipped to me is hard, based on your results I'll reinvestigate sources. looks to be the perfect size for e power as the motors I have been able to source are either overkill or not quite powerful enough for the kind of flying I envision. Thanks.

Edit: re looked at the x pwr 40, it's virtually the same diameter as the turingy 50cc. actually 2mm larger so it seems equivalent enough, and shipping from HK to me is free. heavier though, shouldn't make too much difference. At least I know I'm in the ballpark.

Please note the XPWR is rated for 22-10 propeller but I found that a 20-10 had all the power i needed it was capable of hanging on the propeller and pulling out with authority so I was happy and did not stress the power system and best of all much better run times. Note that electric motors have instant full torque when you want it at the bottom end. I know the boys flying with the 55cc gas engines will not agree with me but this setup with XPWR 40cc is stronger when hanging on the propeller and then pulling out of it straight up.

 

[john Derstine]

I would think whether you can efficiently use a 20x10 vs. a 22x10 would depend in part on whether your using 10 cells or 12. a 20x 10 on 12 cells seems right from what I've researched on similar motor specs ( and the recommendations in the XPWR 40 manual which state a max prop size of 22/10 is for intermittent use of full throttle only, 12 cells). good to know it has plenty of oomph with a smaller prop!

Gas and electric have definite differences in how they deliver power, I think it comes down to preferences rather than one is better or stronger than the other. I'm very comfortable with how gas engines work so, those are a natural preference for me. but I have had a few electrics that demonstrate their advantages. electrics deliver full torque on demand, gas engines need to develop a specific RPM to reach max torque. That and electric motor when they face (physical) resistance just draw more amps & develop more torque. gas engines will stall, why you never want to put your hand in the way of an electric motor of any size. A gas engine will break your fingers, and electric will sheer them off.
You have given me the specific case for this plane set up on electric, and now I feel I have enough info to seriously consider this. My reasons boil down not to which is better, but practicality. at 74, my shoulders are shot from propping gas motors and other activities for 50 years and I live in an apartment, so I'm not keen on storing a gas plane in my living space with the fumes an mess of gas.

 

[Snoopy1]

I would think whether you can efficiently use a 20x10 vs. a 22x10 would depend in part on whether your using 10 cells or 12. a 20x 10 on 12 cells seems right from what I've researched on similar motor specs ( and the recommendations in the XPWR 40 manual which state a max prop size of 22/10 is for intermittent use of full throttle only, 12 cells). good to know it has plenty of oomph with a smaller prop!

Gas and electric have definite differences in how they deliver power, I think it comes down to preferences rather than one is better or stronger than the other. I'm very comfortable with how gas engines work so, those are a natural preference for me. but I have had a few electrics that demonstrate their advantages. electrics deliver full torque on demand, gas engines need to develop a specific RPM to reach max torque. That and electric motor when they face (physical) resistance just draw more amps & develop more torque. gas engines will stall, why you never want to put your hand in the way of an electric motor of any size. A gas engine will break your fingers, and electric will sheer them off.
You have given me the specific case for this plane set up on electric, and now I feel I have enough info to seriously consider this. My reasons boil down not to which is better, but practicality. at 74, my shoulders are shot from propping gas motors and other activities for 50 years and I live in an apartment, so I'm not keen on storing a gas plane in my living space with the fumes an mess of gas.

Don’t get me wrong if I had a choice I will always grab my gas planes to go flying. But what I do like is in the fall and winter an electric plane is great plug it in and of you go flying. They all have their place. But when it is all said and done I do prefer gas planes, like the sound.

 

[john Derstine]

Today I will attempt to contribute something instead of just asking questions. While i'm waiting for servos, I decided there engineer a few things, Tail wheel for one, more on that another time. This first job was to address what looked like a weak point in the strut installation. I decided to tie the the struts together in the fuse with a piece of aluminum so they act as one continuous strut. Reports of the struts ripping out of the fuse are existent. Here where I live there are few sources for hobby materials or thin aluminum, so I have become a scavenger. At the local hardware I found a door sweep that would do fine, after attacking it with a hack saw and drill I slipped it into place between the two fuselage strut mounts. It is thin enough to not affect clearances, so I will epoxy it to the fuse. I was planning of opening up the two holes in the wing to reinforce the wing strut locations, but opted not to, at least for now. the forces now treat the strut as one continuous member so any stresses are distributed equally from wing to wing not to two points on the fuse. Pics explain it.

 

[john Derstine]

one more

 

[Snoopy1]

@john Derstine have you purchased your ESC for the plane. I am presently putting another electric plane together with a XPWR 35cc. And looking for a new Esc. Which ESC have you selected for your Timber

 

[john Derstine]

@john Derstine have you purchased your ESC for the plane. I am presently putting another electric plane together with a XPWR 35cc. And looking for a new Esc. Which ESC have you selected for your Timber

I have not purchased an ESC yet, I'm looking at the Castle Creations Talon HV120amp with BEC included, or the Hobbywing FLYFUN 130A HV OPTO V5 ESC and stand alone Hobbywing UBEC 25A HV 3-18S Module 25A with multiple possible outputs for sharing the load and since I may use 2 rxs this will serve to power both. But still figuring out my configuration. I may even bypass using a BEC and just use two rx packs and a Booma ultraswitch, depending on the weight. my uncertainty lies around the use of two RXs as I have not done that and how best to power each in the correct way. I was going to ask you what ESC you used with your xpwr 40?

 

[AKNick]

one moreView attachment 117693

Did you replace the blind nuts? This seemed to be the weak point for me, the ones included are pretty weak/thin and will eventually give up by stripping or shearing unless they've addressed this already.

 

[Snoopy1]

I have not purchased an ESC yet, I'm looking at the Castle Creations Talon HV120amp with BEC included, or the Hobbywing FLYFUN 130A HV OPTO V5 ESC and stand alone Hobbywing UBEC 25A HV 3-18S Module 25A with multiple possible outputs for sharing the load and since I may use 2 rxs this will serve to power both. But still figuring out my configuration. I may even bypass using a BEC and just use two rx packs and a Booma ultraswitch, depending on the weight. my uncertainty lies around the use of two RXs as I have not done that and how best to power each in the correct way. I was going to ask you what ESC you used with your xpwr 40?

In my Timber I have Castle Hv 120A. No Sbec. Run one 4000mAh for the radio as far forward as possible to balance, it is only that big because I had it on hand and the plane balance perfectly with it.
The Castle has worked great never any problems and worked right out of box, great unit. The only thing is after doing some research on ESC and also speaking to Exstream-Flite they recommend that I take look at their new scorpion Tribunus ll 12-130A ESC SBEC. the research I have done up to now I am really interested in the unit the programming looks doable. The one thing that really interests me that you set the battery size and after flying up that amount the esc will cut back telling you you reached the set amount you like to use. Great feature no timer and always get maximum use from your battery and never over discharge the batteries.