Scale 20cc DHC-2 "Beaver" Kit Build from Moustache Model Works

[BalsaDust]

I have that same little Stanley hand plane. Thought it was a total POS when I first got it and it set on a shelf for a year before I got it out again to use. This time I decided to first sharpen the blade then setup it up to take small shavings and I was amazed at the results. It gets used on pretty much every one of my builds now.

 

[AKNick]

I have that same little Stanley hand plane. Thought it was a total POS when I first got it and it set on a shelf for a year before I got it out again to use. This time I decided to first sharpen the blade then setup it up to take small shavings and I was amazed at the results. It gets used on pretty much every one of my builds now.

It’s a pain to tune it. But yes, once you get it set up, it does a pretty good job!

 

[AKNick]

FYI This kit is $30 off during the RCG Online Trade Show.

 

[AKNick]

Decided to Put the elevators aside and do the vertical stab.


Made some extra hinge material with scrap for my robart hinges



Marking where the former meets the rib.



I messed this step up bad. Be very careful glueing these dorsal skins on. It’s extremely easy to warp them. I had to remove some of it and refit and glue. Take your time!

 

[AKNick]

Rudder.

Couple items of interest. Rudder skin placement, note that it’s off set a bit. The manual give you instruction how to place it. A little tricky.
Once again. I created warp in the trailing edge. Had to unglue and try again. Might want to use wood glue, or something that gives you working time. I found this to be frustrating. There is a lot of curves so you cannot lay it flat and glue it.



Added some extra material for pins

 

[Snoopy1]

Rudder.

Couple items of interest. Rudder skin placement, note that it’s off set a bit. The manual give you instruction how to place it. A little tricky.
Once again. I created warp in the trailing edge. Had to unglue and try again. Might want to use wood glue, or something that gives you working time. I found this to be frustrating. There is a lot of curves so you cannot lay it flat and glue it.

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Added some extra material for pins

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One of the ways to keep the trailing edge straight is cut a strip of balsa just a little less than half the rudder thickness of the rudder at the leading edge, and lay it under the rudder trailing edge and add your wood glue and lay the trailing edge on the balsa and then lay some heavy weight along the top trailing edge then let it dry.. And yes do not forget to weigh the rudder leading edge down on to the bench as well.

 

[AKNick]

One of the ways to keep the trailing edge straight is cut a strip of balsa just a little less than half the rudder thickness of the rudder at the leading edge, and lay it under the rudder trailing edge and add your wood glue and lay the trailing edge on the balsa and then lay some heavy weight along the top trailing edge then let it dry.. And yes do not forget to weigh the rudder leading edge down on to the bench as well.

The rudder spar tapers from the bottom up, and right before the counter balance it does another taper to meet up with the counter balance... very tricky... to level/weigh down because of this. Everything seemed to fit just great... until I glued it.

Thanks for the input.

 

[AKNick]

Got the bevel done. Drilled the rudder torque tube guide in place.


I’m going to set everything I’ve done so far aside and move onto the wings


And movin:

 

[WMcNabb]

Cool video of the full scale history by the guys at FliteTest...

 

[AKNick]

Working on the wing. Not sure why, but building over these plans kinda bother me because the variances in accuracy over the laser cut wood. David mentions this in his manual. So you use the plans as a guide and trust the wood. I’m not used to this.
There are steps in the manual with pictures made further in the build that you are at which is also misleading.
So read though it carefully. One thing that I thought would help when unbuild the other wing is to dry fit all the ply pieces like the servo bays to give you a better idea of where things need to go.

Note the inboard ribs are closer together when fitting the LE spar.


As mentioned in the manual, Mark where the cap strips go using the wood as a guide not the plans... doesn’t make much sense to use the plans other than squareness.


Razor saw is nice for this.


TE spar going in place


Here are the spars provided. Ugly grain.


One young growth spar is having a bad hair day. Glue should fix that along with poring it with an older spar.


LE spar with a scarf joint. Note there is a gap between the alignment marks.


Putting the 1/4-20 blind but in place.


The manual shows both sides flush... hmmm may have to trim it off.


Dry fitting



Starting to look like a wing.