• If you are new to GiantScaleNews.com, please register, introduce yourself, and make yourself at home.

    We're 1st in Giant Scale RC because we've got the best membership on the internet! Take a look around and don't forget to register to get all of the benefits of GSN membership!

    Welcome!

3DHS 75" EDGE 540 V2 Assembly Thread

AKNick

AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
Aileron Servos.

I learned a couple things.
First - the MKS777 gen1 do not fit. They are too deep. I tried shims but it messed up the geometry for down deflection (the control surface horn hits the servo). However the MKS777A+ fit just great (overkill alert!!!).
Second - Aileron deflection for optimum roll and control should never exceed 38 degrees. Learning that you should start at about 40 and adjust it down or up from there. Anything more will actually slow the plane down in a maneuver and fast rolling. I have found this to be true when trying to rifle roll at high speeds with another plane (I said trying... no I cannot rifle roll).

IMG_3841.JPG IMG_3842.JPG IMG_3843.JPG IMG_3844.JPG IMG_3845.JPG IMG_3846.JPG IMG_3847.JPG

Used some snake skin looming from TDRC (the orange) and some red marine grade heat shrink. The marine grade heat shrink has adhesive inside which sticks to the looming and servo wires - keeping it from sliding all over the place (staying put).

IMG_3849.JPG

I love that they made a slot to keep the wire towards the end of the wing so you don't have to fish it out all the time.

IMG_3850.JPG IMG_3851.JPG

Drill, Tap, cure, and bingo.
 
Last edited:
AKNick

AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
IMG_4323.JPG
Almost forgot! 1.25" EF Arm. The way the geometery is set up you CANNOT reach full deflection bevel to bevel. As previously mentioned 38-40 degrees is all you need for aileron deflection, otherwise your rolls will actually slow down the plane. Creates too much drag in flight and is inefficient.
 
stangflyer

stangflyer

I like 'em "BIG"!
AKNick said:
Aileron Servos.

I learned a couple things.
First - the MKS777 gen1 do not fit. They are too deep. I tried shims but it messed up the geometry for down deflection (the control surface horn hits the servo). However the MKS777A+ fit just great (overkill alert!!!).
Second - Aileron deflection for optimum roll and control should never exceed 38 degrees. Learning that you should start at about 40 and adjust it down or up from there. Anything more will actually slow the plane down in a maneuver and fast rolling. I have found this to be true when trying to rifle roll at high speeds with another plane (I said trying... no I cannot rifle roll).

View attachment 107258 View attachment 107259 View attachment 107260 View attachment 107261 View attachment 107262 View attachment 107263 View attachment 107264

Used some snake skin looming from TDRC (the orange) and some red marine grade heat shrink. The marine grade heat shrink has adhesive inside which sticks to the looming and servo wires - keeping it from sliding all over the place (staying put).

View attachment 107265

I love that they made a slot to keep the wire towards the end of the wing so you don't have to fish it out all the time.

View attachment 107266 View attachment 107267

Drill, Tap, cure, and bingo.
Click to expand...
Nice little bit of info about the heat shrink. Where do you get it? I would really like to give it a try.
 
AKNick

AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
Castle Pheonix Edge HV 80A ESC + Futaba SBS-01C Current Sensor + XT90/S + in series

I've never put Lipos in Series like this before, so that was different. This setup will be using two 6S batteries (12S total) which have XT90S connectors on them (Anti-Spark).

I took the heat shrink off and carefully took off the wrapper off the Futaba SBS-01C Current Sensor, rewired it so the wire gauge is the same size and correct length for what my application. I just so happen to have some large clear heat shrink to put back over it - factory new!! The Sensor has a reset button you need to push prior to each flight to reset the data... not sure why this couldn't be done remotely from the Tx? So placement in the airframe was a little tricky.

IMG_3368.JPG IMG_3369.JPG IMG_3370.JPG

I've spun the motor up briefly, but still waiting for my spinner. I'll post my Castle Link Settings once I've run up the motor.

Futaba SBS-01C Current Telemetry Sensor:
https://futabausa.com/shop/sensors/futaba-sbs-01c-current-sensor/

Castle Creations Phoenix Edge 80HV:
http://www.castlecreations.com/en/phoenix-edge-hv80-esc-010-0105-00

Hobby King XT-90S Anti-Spark Connectors:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/xt90-s-anti-spark-connector-2pairs-bag.html
 
Snoopy1

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Nice work again thanks for doing this I am looking at buy a 30cc electric motor and all the stuff to try it once so this has been a help.
 
stangflyer

stangflyer

I like 'em "BIG"!
AKNick said:
Castle Pheonix Edge HV 80A ESC + Futaba SBS-01C Current Sensor + XT90/S + in series

I've never put Lipos in Series like this before, so that was different. This setup will be using two 6S batteries (12S total) which have XT90S connectors on them (Anti-Spark).

I took the heat shrink off and carefully took off the wrapper off the Futaba SBS-01C Current Sensor, rewired it so the wire gauge is the same size and correct length for what my application. I just so happen to have some large clear heat shrink to put back over it - factory new!! The Sensor has a reset button you need to push prior to each flight to reset the data... not sure why this couldn't be done remotely from the Tx? So placement in the airframe was a little tricky.

View attachment 107280 View attachment 107281 View attachment 107282

I've spun the motor up briefly, but still waiting for my spinner. I'll post my Castle Link Settings once I've run up the motor.

Futaba SBS-01C Current Telemetry Sensor:
https://futabausa.com/shop/sensors/futaba-sbs-01c-current-sensor/

Castle Creations Phoenix Edge 80HV:
http://www.castlecreations.com/en/phoenix-edge-hv80-esc-010-0105-00

Hobby King XT-90S Anti-Spark Connectors:
https://hobbyking.com/en_us/xt90-s-anti-spark-connector-2pairs-bag.html
Click to expand...
I am glad you posted this particular post. It reminded me I needed to get some advice from you fellas on a very good quality, ultra dependable ESC for the Kolm starter motor. You see, I am not able to read German/Austrian and the booklet that came with my 150 outlines a few things. I can make out 40 amp. simply because I can read 40. LOL..... I really see no point in spending 200 dollars for an ESC that will only drive the starter motor for short bursts now and then. But then again, I am not willing to compromise quality to purchase a 10 dollar HK special. Any of you have any suggestions for me? By the way....nice setup.:way_to_go:
 
pawnshopmike

pawnshopmike

Staff member
stangflyer said:
I am glad you posted this particular post. It reminded me I needed to get some advice from you fellas on a very good quality, ultra dependable ESC for the Kolm starter motor. You see, I am not able to read German/Austrian and the booklet that came with my 150 outlines a few things. I can make out 40 amp. simply because I can read 40. LOL..... I really see no point in spending 200 dollars for an ESC that will only drive the starter motor for short bursts now and then. But then again, I am not willing to compromise quality to purchase a 10 dollar HK special. Any of you have any suggestions for me? By the way....nice setup.:way_to_go:
Click to expand...

Here ya go.

https://www.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXDBBM&P=0
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top