• If you are new to GiantScaleNews.com, please register, introduce yourself, and make yourself at home.

    We're 1st in Giant Scale RC because we've got the best membership on the internet! Take a look around and don't forget to register to get all of the benefits of GSN membership!

    Welcome!
  • Unless you are a paid advertiser NO more posting advertisement in the individual vendor forums. You may post in the Manufacturer's Announcements section only but only ONCE a month unless your a paid advertiser.

78'' Extra

dth7

dth7

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
hone1er said:
Hey Kevin glad it's coming together. Looks good. I used the 20B from the start. Also, i never had a problem with cooling but i did baffle my engine. I just have those cutouts i showed you and never had an issue with that. I used some cheap foam sheet to make my baffle. Just cut it out and CA it to the cowl. It seems flimsy but when you cut it into smaller pieces and glue it in place it's not moving. I sealed my hinge gaps and i definitely recommend it. Good luck with the maiden!


BTW, i think one of your mufflers is backwards.
Click to expand...

+1 Kevin. Looks nice and clean. Seal the hinges and enjoy. This was my first gasser and I am a return from a 15+ year hiatus. Having a blast with the 78.
 
dth7

dth7

3DRCF Regional Ambassador
Just finished installing a Wolverine batt share switch. Had two in flight scares with a vibrating loose connector on a single batt setup. Not a good feeling to have uncommanded control shifts and a sputtering engine out of the blue. Lucky both times so time for some redundancy. I was considering a 9110 power safe but Enterprise had a wolverine hanging around. I traded my 2 3000 mAh batts for a couple 2200 with GHoffman and its all ready to go. Btw I do not like soldering deans connectors. Why don't they have a hole for the wire? Will be using an ext BEC and additional batt on the last too. List my extra to a bad solder joint too. Nice feeling now to have some fail safe and redundancy. With the 2200s I should be set to fly as long as I want to. Have to get a couple smaller ones for a lighter setup. This thing doesn't have a thrust t I wt issue!
 
Last edited by a moderator:
S

Scooterpilot

50cc
Kevin
I see you have the 40cc with the small plugs. How much clearance is there b/t the cowl and the plug boot? Do you think the 40cc with the CM6 angled plugs will fit?
 
Last edited by a moderator:
RKEstes

RKEstes

50cc
Maybe 1/4" on each side. I doubt it would fit without cutting the cowl.
 

Attachments

  • IMG_20130927_123851_737[1].jpg
    IMG_20130927_123851_737[1].jpg
    403.3 KB · Views: 202
S

Scooterpilot

50cc
A question about wheel pant installation. On the side of the pant that has been cut for the axle to fit into it. It has to be opened up so I can get the wheel pant on the axle as it won't fit as it. Also, do I have to open it up enough so the wheel pant fits flush against the landing gear? If this is the case, then I have to open up the pant enough for the axle nut to fit into the wheel pant? Hope the question make sense

Chuck
 
RKEstes

RKEstes

50cc
You'll want to open it up just enough so that the wheel pant slides down and the slot bottoms out on the axle. The formed on "nut" shaped portion of the axle goes on the inside of the wheel pant. I had to gently pull apart the wheel well on the pant to make it slide in. Hope this make sense. They assemble the same as all of the EF planes. The build videos on the website are lots of help. Here's a link.

http://www.extremeflightrc.com/html/arf_resource.html
 
Last edited by a moderator:
S

Scooterpilot

50cc
I sealed the wooden area on the fuse where the main landing gear mounts....... Epoxy watered down with denatured alchohol. Main gear is on and wheel pants are mocked up. I don't think I'm going to use the wood screw that comes with the kit; instead, I'm going to open the hole in the landing gear just a bit and install a blind nut in the wheel pant. It will take more time but I believe it will be more secure.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Top