• If you are new to GiantScaleNews.com, please register, introduce yourself, and make yourself at home.

    We're 1st in Giant Scale RC because we've got the best membership on the internet! Take a look around and don't forget to register to get all of the benefits of GSN membership!

    Welcome!

3D CAP 232-ST design / build / prototype

BalsaDust

Moderator
Yes I agree on the wing and stab placement. You brought the wing up some but not so much as to take away from a good scale look. Looks great.
 
Like the way you kept the stab high and ahead of the rudder. It's worth the trade off because thats is one of the things that make a Cap look so unique.
I totally agree. The wing location will not throw off the overall looks of the plane,whereas stab location would alter the overall look of the airframe. It will still look exactly like a CAP and not be mistaken for any other plane.
 

tylerzx9r

100cc
Does this wing placement not being at the same height of the stab also create snap tendency problems? I was always under the impression that this is why they fly inverted better? Am I wrong?
 

jaybird

70cc twin V2
I think the snap tendency of old caps was just due to high wing load. Sbach has a high stab also and has no snap tendencies. Might couple with rudder but that's what mixing is for. :)
 

Terryscustom

640cc Uber Pimp
Does this wing placement not being at the same height of the stab also create snap tendency problems? I was always under the impression that this is why they fly inverted better? Am I wrong?

The wing vs stab placement has a stronger effect on coupling then it does on snapping. Wing loading combined with tip chord combined with low wing and possibly combined with the dihedral present in the actual CAP wing is where it get's it's nemesis namesake.

On my design:
- Wing loading = not an issue
- Diheral = gone bye bye
- Low wing = raised slightly and will deal with coupling in a couple of other ways such as incidence and the taller rudder will help create some drag above the canopy.

Edit: Looks like Jaybird and I hit the post button at the same time.
 

Terryscustom

640cc Uber Pimp
Parting boards / molding boards or whatever you want to cell them on this one.....they are built and waxed.

Ready to work on in the AM.
 

Attachments

  • _DSC0763.JPG
    _DSC0763.JPG
    75 KB · Views: 295
  • _DSC0764.JPG
    _DSC0764.JPG
    90.4 KB · Views: 299
  • _DSC0765.JPG
    _DSC0765.JPG
    74.3 KB · Views: 308

Terryscustom

640cc Uber Pimp
Not doing it, is the simple answer. Trying to design a 3D plane with above average performance characteristics. If someone wants to try to design something from ground up with this mod that sounds like a cool thread.
 

Terryscustom

640cc Uber Pimp
Working on the cowl mold today. Fist I attached the plugs to the parting boards with a little glue so they can be easily removed. Next all seams around the edges need to be completely sealed off flush with non-hardening clay. This will form a nice flush edge for the mold. The clay typically pushes in slightly during the application of the gelcoat layer but can be sanded flush after the plug is removed. Just waiting for PVA to dry right now and ready to start applying some gelcoat and glass to form the mold.
 

Attachments

  • _DSC0766.JPG
    _DSC0766.JPG
    79 KB · Views: 325
  • _DSC0767.JPG
    _DSC0767.JPG
    44.4 KB · Views: 293
  • _DSC0768.JPG
    _DSC0768.JPG
    66 KB · Views: 293

Jetpainter

640cc Uber Pimp
Terry,
What weight cloth do you use for the mold? And for the layup of the cowl itself, what weight and how many layers?

Doug
 
Top