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IMAC Double Build, Carden Pro 124" Extra 300 40%

I tried to keep these two as stock as possible, I did add CF bracing, but only where my hands would be going in and out of the fuselage, that way, I do not worry about knocking out one of the balsa cross braces by accident.

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thurmma

150cc
Thanks Cam and Rich! I was wondering about the weight. Maybe just a thin layer of cf fabric on the balsa supports to help reduce the flex? Just thinking out loud. Don't want to end up with a sky pig but, I would want to make sure there was no flex in the fuse :)
 
Hi Mark, I hear you. Very common for us, who build, to try and attempt and make reinforcements and revisions to the original plan. When I ordered the Kits from Dennis G., the owner of Carden (Carolyn + Dennis = Car - Den). Carolyn is his wife. Dennis, spoke to me for a good while, and gave me a good amount of history, as well as, telling me, how extensively this airplane kit has been tested by pilots, and in particular, by Kurt Koelling, "the professor" ( I believe is his forum name). He tells me that Kurt has done extensive testing, and with the stock airplane, if built exactly as described, then It will last 1000's of flights, and be able to compete in all classes of competition. Any revisions or additions or omissions, you see us do, according to Dennis, is not required. But we are who we are, and we love to revise and change things up!! Guess it makes it more unique. I have stolen ideas from Primo, Dave Dixon, Dean Nistetter, and even from other kits, like Daltons.... SO , it is definitely fun to build and change things up. You definitely would not want to change things up to the point, where it compromises the air frame, but adding carbon fiber, may add some weight, compared to balsa. However, the carbon fiber is lighter than hard woods, like bass wood, spruce, etc...
 
Got some more done.
All the stabs and wings have the incidence set.

The stabs are stabilized to the fuselage using two screws, 6-32. There are hard points installed, and sanded flush with fuse side.
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These studs were installed, by 1st drilling across from opposite side, using a 15" long 15/64" drill bit, special ordered (cost me 110 dollars). then, using a 1/2" counter drill, i opened the holes in the fuselage side....



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I must admit, this is not easy!!
Building this airplane for tuned pipes is a real PITA!!

Ok, this is before:


this is ok,
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Here, you can see it is tight. The bottom of rear motor box opening is touching the pipe, as well as in the top of this opening.... Not good!
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Also, If i placed the belly pan on, it would not seat itself...

also, here, you can see the cross braces are preventing the tuned pipe from being displaced upwards (airplane is upside down right now). This all has to be moved down to allow the belly pan to get seated...
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Ok, this is 1st thing I did. I moved the cross braces up by 1.75 inches.

I also removed the plywood on the top area of the tunnel, near to the wing tube.

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