INVERSA 33 ARF assembly by Hanger 9. Motor OS-GT33

[Snoopy1]

Had some spare time today so I thought I would take a look at the gas tank. Well did not any of it heavy tank and the fittings were bad it all went into the trash can built a new one.
It from a Fuji water bottle and viton klunk line and the rest Tyson tubing. The Fuji bottle was less than half the weight of the supplied tank. And the Fuji tank is 500cc which should be enough for a 15 minute flight on 33cc engine.

 

[Snoopy1]

Hi @stangflyer thanks for instructions on how to do the motor box like the way you would do it . Unfortunately I had already made the cut but if not I would have done it your way I believe it would be just as strong if not better but also lighter and look better.

 

[Snoopy1]

Well got the motor box on, alignment good and square. Before I glued it back on made a hole in the firewall to fit the motor through. It was easier to do when the firewall is not on the plane. Put four wooden Dowels in the corners then wrapped the outside with 2oz cloth and epoxy. Put some doublers on the inside. That should hold it all together. Hope this will hold and all is good to continue.

 

[Snoopy1]

Glued the rudder on everything fitted good, the slots were aligned and done correctly. Did not use the supplied tail wheel it was supported in the rudder which I do not like. Had to leave a small gap to get the full deflection for the rudder.

 

[Snoopy1]

Did the tail wheel. Found one I still had in my parts supply. Drilled the bottom of the rudder for the swivel and added some hardwood dowels for the tail wheel. This will do a lot better than the tail wheel glued into the rudder.

 

[Snoopy1]

If some body has some advice on how to control the spitting into the fuselage I sure would like to hear from you. Like the way jetpainter did his on his scratch build but my engine is much deeper into the firewall and how @Pistolera had done it with a PVC pipe but again not able to adapt it to this installation. Thanks.

 

[stangflyer]

It's looking real good. You did an awesome recovery on the firewall. As for inside, many are using a "damn" just after of your carb intake. From motor box side to motor box side. Seal it with thinned epoxy and paint it on. Let it cure...and there ya go.

 

[Jetpainter]

It's looking real good. You did an awesome recovery on the firewall. As for inside, many are using a "damn" just after of your carb intake. From motor box side to motor box side. Seal it with thinned epoxy and paint it on. Let it cure...and there ya go.

My friend did something similar on his DA85 powered 35% Pilot Extra 330SC He basically built a second firewall out of lite ply far enough back that you could still get to the motor mounting bolts through the hole in the top of the engine box.

When I put the GP61 in my Carf Extra I had to cut a hole for the whole carb to fit in. I then built a box like the one in my scratch build airplane only bigger.

 

[Snoopy1]

It's looking real good. You did an awesome recovery on the firewall. As for inside, many are using a "damn" just after of your carb intake. From motor box side to motor box side. Seal it with thinned epoxy and paint it on. Let it cure...and there ya go.

I guess I am going to have to come up with a box of some kind will have think about this one my hole is not square or round so it going to take some thought. Thanks for all the support and suggestions.
Took another look at the picture you inserted, I noticed that the box did not cover the compleat hole but enough to cover the carburetor intake. Thanks that gives me a new idea going downstairs to see if I can make that work thanks @Jetpainter.

 

[stangflyer]

If you don't want to make a little box...which that one is very cool @Jetpainter, you can just put a lite ply plate behind the carb. Your carb spray will be stopped by the damn.