INVERSA 33 ARF assembly by Hanger 9. Motor OS-GT33

[Snoopy1]

If you don't want to make a little box...which that one is very cool @Jetpainter, you can just put a lite ply plate behind the carb. Your carb spray will be stopped by the damn.

I am trying to understand what you are explaining. Is there a small dam wall glued across the motor box bottom for example 1/4 by 1/4 and a ply wood plate suspended in front of the carburetor with some gap. So that when the carburetor spits fuel it hits the plate and drops down in front of the dam and then is drained out somehow. Did I understand it right.

 

[Snoopy1]

Well received the canister today and the parts to build the header pipe some thing I have never done so it should prove to be interesting. Looks like i will need to buy one of those super hot propane torches. Do not know which one to get but will have to ask and find out. If any body has done this and knows which torches to get please let me know and if you have picture or a part number that will be appreciated, thanks.

 

[Snoopy1]

Looks like I will have to go and buy some Map-Pro gas and a torch to build the exhaust. Will have check out the local hardware store to see what they have.

 

[stangflyer]

I am trying to understand what you are explaining. Is there a small dam wall glued across the motor box bottom for example 1/4 by 1/4 and a ply wood plate suspended in front of the carburetor with some gap. So that when the carburetor spits fuel it hits the plate and drops down in front of the dam and then is drained out somehow. Did I understand it right.

Sort of... but no need to use 1/4". Just cut yourself a piece of 1/16" or 3/32" lite ply the width of the inside of your motor box. Heck you could even use Balsa as it will be painted with thinned epoxy. You don't need the dam for strength, just to block the carburetor spitting. Make sure it meets the bottom of your motor box. In essence all your doing is putting a wall up behind your carb to stop the spitting from being spit directly down your fuse. You can use 1/4" tri stock on one side or the other to help the rigidity. Once painted with the thinned epoxy, it will be fuel proof...and in fact I would paint the entire inside of the motor box where your carb will be. Won't add any significant weight, strengthen that area and keep the fuel out of the fuse. This method is extremely quick and easy and works well. There are a ton of ways to accomplish the task you're looking to complete. The little box is very cool. The wall/dam is ultra quick and easy.

 

[Snoopy1]

Sort of... but no need to use 1/4". Just cut yourself a piece of 1/16" or 3/32" lite ply the width of the inside of your motor box. Heck you could even use Balsa as it will be painted with thinned epoxy. You don't need the dam for strength, just to block the carburetor spitting. Make sure it meets the bottom of your motor box. In essence all your doing is putting a wall up behind your carb to stop the spitting from being spit directly down your fuse. You can use 1/4" tri stock on one side or the other to help the rigidity. Once painted with the thinned epoxy, it will be fuel proof...and in fact I would paint the entire inside of the motor box where your carb will be. Won't add any significant weight, strengthen that area and keep the fuel out of the fuse. This method is extremely quick and easy and works well. There are a ton of ways to accomplish the task you're looking to complete. The little box is very cool. The wall/dam is ultra quick and easy.

Thanks for taking the time to explain that. Will have to tackle that soon. First I am going to see how easy it is going to be to install the exhaust system.

 

[stangflyer]

Ah heck... you can do it. You'll do great!

 

[Snoopy1]

Took some time to install the servos into the wings while I contemplated the exhaust system and the fuel spray back into the fuselage.
Painted the inside of wing servo box to match the colour of the wing. The rest was pretty straight forward. Drilled the servo holes and hardened the holes and assembled the rest. Only change is the threaded rod was replaced with titanium rode with left and right hand thread just makes life a lot easier when setting up the plane.

 

[Snoopy1]

The

Did a motor fit with cowl and made four aluminum washers to get me to the final setup or gap with the cowl and the spinner. Now to see how I can prevent the carburetor from spitting back into the fuselage. Have a few ideas but will show you later when I get something that looks like it will work.

 

[Snoopy1]

Still doing some research on the header/ canister length. It looks like the stinger is going to want to exhaust out of the fuselage right at a bulkhead??????? Going to be a pain. One other thing I have just learnt the hard way is that a canister with stinger at the back is impossible to side through the fuselage with out cutting the stinger off. Sure would not like to do that. I cannot be the first person in this predicament. If some has run into this and solved it an easy way I would really appreciate some help.

 

[Jetpainter]

Sometimes you can relieve the angle on the stinger a tad to make it slide in easier. A lot of them are at a 90 degree angle which makes them stick way down below the can.

I have a friend that had to cut his off to get the cans in, then added an extension to get it outside the fuse.

On my scratch build I had to design the pipe tunnel so the near three foot long pipe would slide inside the fuse. It's a damn tight fit, and you need to have it at just the right angle, but it works, barely.