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Ordered my Su-26

Smitty

Smitty

50cc
One of the bad things with me is I live in a 39 ft. 5th wheel and have my planes in a storage unit so I have to wait until it warms up to go work on the, if it stays cold then I don't work on them.---Smitty
 
B

Bill Burkert

50cc
Smitty said:
Bill, I haven't gone far enough to mount the rudder servo yet. Today I was planning on opening the holes in the covering for the stab tube and locater pins and servo arms in the stab and wings. I flew yesterday, temp in high 6os , very little wind with a bright sunny day. I may go fly again today. But I will spend a lot of time on it tomorrow. I have to enlarge the servo holes to fit the Savox servos. Will be mounting the side windows also or do you suggest I wait until later on in the build to do that part. Sure is nice to have a couple of build threads to help.---Smitty
Click to expand...

Smitty, I would put the side windows in before much fuselage gets going only because now the fuselage is light and easy to work on. Make sure you get the covering well shrunk and sealed beforehand, I used a Monokote trim iron to make nice sharp corners in the openings. I laid the fuselage on its side and did one side window at a time, just letting the window lay in the hole to dry. I also added a piece of a white straw behind the window for a tubular fuselage frame effect.

For enlarging the servo holes I used a Perma-Grit hand file, http://www.permagrit.com/product.php?cPath=66_77&products_id=340 , and I also added a little plywood behind all the servo locations for a little more screw support. The Chinese plywood seems kinda weak and hollow, thin CA on all edges seems to help. I pinned the firewall with carbon fiber pegs and when doing so that plywood seemed extremely hollow because the drill felt like when you go through a piece of wood.

I feel for you having to go and work on your plane, I am in the process of moving to another house next month after 23 years.
 
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Smitty

Smitty

50cc
Thanks for the info and advice. I normally use toothpicks to pin the firewall, but I do like your idea about CF dowels, I think I will go in that direction. I will keep you posted.--Smitty
 
rmyers

rmyers

70cc twin V2
I haven't got to the rudder cables either. According to SWB they should be crossed if you use an offset arm which is recommended in the assembly manual. I'm working on mounting up the engine right now. It is much easier to glue up the side windows with the airframe bare. I used canopy glue they fit perfect.
 
BalsaDust

BalsaDust

Moderator
So on the quality issues with this plane this is all I have to say as I received one through the GSN one year anniversary give away. My plane arrived in excellent condition minus the cowl. Replacement cowl came busted to hell and the second one arrived in perfect shape. This in no way reflects on PAU as it was all shipping damage and Herve was eager to get it resolved for me. As far as everything else so far on the plane it has been great. Yeah the landing gear was a little bit of a pain but oh well and the star on the left side of my rudder was peeling a bit. 5 seconds with the trim iron and that was fixed. Overall I'm super happy with this plane and plan to buy from PAU in the future when I can afford it.
 
B

Bill Burkert

50cc
rmyers said:
I haven't got to the rudder cables either. According to SWB they should be crossed if you use an offset arm which is recommended in the assembly manual. I'm working on mounting up the engine right now. It is much easier to glue up the side windows with the airframe bare. I used canopy glue they fit perfect.
Click to expand...

Cool, we use an offset servo arm because the rudder control horns are offset. Crossing or straight does not really change the geometry, crossing allows for a smaller exit hole. Rubbing maybe an issue? I am going to cross them, mount one ball link on the bottom side of the servo arm, lengthen the exit holes enough to not rub and use the exit covers that I bought this morning from aircraft international after I paint them white. Then I think it is finished.
 
rmyers

rmyers

70cc twin V2
I'm planning to try example c:

http://www.swbmfg.com/pull-pull-wire-explanation/

Right now I'm McGivering up the right length standoffs with what's available at the local hardware store on Sunday. Sold out of the right length cap screws it figures. Going to work with DA to get the right length standoffs and get rid of all the aluminum spacers. I learned the hard way DA cases and SWB standoffs don't work well together.

DSCN1203.JPG
 
B

Bill Burkert

50cc
rmyers said:
I'm planning to try example c:

http://www.swbmfg.com/pull-pull-wire-explanation/

Right now I'm McGivering up the right length standoffs with what's available at the local hardware store on Sunday. Sold out of the right length cap screws it figures. Going to work with DA to get the right length standoffs and get rid of all the aluminum spacers. I learned the hard way DA cases and SWB standoffs don't work well together.
Click to expand...

I would make a bunch of plywood standoffs and a good one for the backside to distribute the load, mine is cut like it is because I first thought I would use the EME auto-start but it weighs 1.5lbs and with batteries in the tail the plane was still friggen nose heavy. I got rid of the auto-start and everything balanced nicely. I do like your DA50 motor, it looks pretty darn light. My plane finished came out to 19lbs, PAU recommends 18-20 so I am pretty pleased I am not overweight.

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