Ordered my Su-26
- Thread starter Smitty
- Start date
Bartman
Defender of the Noob!
i used longer bolts and put a locknut on the back with my Pitts Challenger
Bill Burkert
50cc
Having the rudder arm further away from the hinge line provides better leverage, not having the control horn reach the hinge line requires an offset servo arm. If you have a straight servo arm then you will have to change the rudder control horns so they extend a little further so they are on the hinge line. An offset rudder provides slightly less rudder throw since the control linkage will/could contact the fuselage sooner than a straight rudder arm. I like the gold rudder arm connectors so I have an offset servo arm. I did have to drill out the gold rudder connectors so the Secraft pins would fit through the connectors. I could be all wrong but this is my understanding
/Bill Burkert
50cc
I did it this way on the rudder but found the masking tape difficult to tear apart and get out of the hinge line when the glue was dry. After that I punched half circles (a little more than half) on two pieces and put the punched edges down the hinge line so removal was easier. I used one hole on a three ring paper punch and removed the hole catching tray so I could see how far the tape edge was over the hole for the half circle. The three hole paper punch seems to have a sharper cutter than a one holer that I bought new from a stationary store. The one holer's seemed like a cheap POS.
rmyers
70cc twin V2
I borrowed the hole punch idea as well. Worked great using a cheap single hole punch and Scotch Blue masking tape. Epoxy on one side Gorilla glue on the other. Watch the hinges I found there to be a mix of genuine Robart and Chobart junk. I replaced every questionable hinge point with Robart Super Hinge Points.
Bill Burkert
50cc
Yes, loctite on everything and I used longer screws so I could put on a locknut with the plastic insert. I didn't put loctite on the plastic insert nut because I think loctite attacks plastic but read that others do. I also put on a small washer on the screw before inserting it through the ball link so the ball link couldn't pop off over the screw. I also replaced the ball links with Secraft ball links because I read that the cheap ball links will wallow out and get sloppy. I would have kept the originals if I thought they were original Horizon Hobby, high quality hardware but comparing the real H9 to what came with the plane it was obvious they were different. I also think the stock ball link titanium connectors are not titanium and certainly not H9, luckily I had some real H9 titanium connectors in my personal stock I used them.
I also put a little loctite on the servo spline. It was very little because I didn't want to mess up the servo, I even wiped some off beforehand just to be sure it was a very little amount. I really prefer a piece of mind when flying because there are enough gremlins out there.
)Bill Burkert
50cc
Yeah, the original hinge points have questionable looking hinge pins and cheaper plastic cracks more easily. I doubt Robart plastic is a more than low quality plastic, maybe nylon instead. I wrote to the plane's manufacuer with an updated manual and website descepancies but it's seems obvious they intentionally won't update the information because then the kit would not be so outstanding and demand a bit of a higher price - but let's not start the bashing train again with truth in advertising ;o). The website and manual could be updated, it's only incorrect for 6+ years.
I guess if there is an upside the Secraft upgrades come in anodized red.
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