Pilot 40% 330 Recover and Build

[stangflyer]

This must be prominent on larger planes. Lifting a 40 pound plane carefully takes a little thought trying not to break 1/4 stringers. But Evan so to lift a 40% plane you still need to lift from the bottom. You would think that the manufacturers would put a little more strength across the bottom to prevent this from happening.

True... However my son and I have devised several methods to prohibit any breakage. I'll get some photos this evening and post them. Absolutely no reason to lift from the bottom. Plus, an advantage is they are easier to maneuver in tight places.

 

[stangflyer]

Ok, here ya go Snoop..... Just a couple of photos of the way my son and I do our "BIG" birds. Well, actually it comes in handy on 35centers also. I think my Lil Yak-Ster will also get this set up as it is not so big or heavy. Just really no place to get hold of it without risking breaking all those long stringers that make the fuselage round.

Basically we select one of the cross braces in the top of the fuse that will allow us a reach between "that" cross brace and the prop. on the front of the engine. Near the CG is good, but it really doesn't matter. Just depends how heavy the fuse's are. My Behemoth Yak fuse comes in around 39 or 40 pounds. Of course once the wings and stabs are in place and the fuel tank is full of high test go go juice, she comes in a few more over 50'ish pounds. I can't remember for sure. I believe Shayne's PAU Edge is about the same. So the idea is to select a cross brace that will allow an evenly distributed weight between that brace and the prop. We glue in a Bass wood stringer on both bottom sides of the cross brace. Typically a 3/8" square or similar. Now obviously no one would "ever" think it wise to pick one of these big monsters up using a cross brace as a lifting handle. But believe it or not...once the Bass wood doubler/supports are in place....that cross brace becomes one of the strongest parts of the entire fuse. We've not had a single broken cross brace and you can't imagine how superb these "lift" handles come in handy. Since I have no garage, (at present) all my planes are stored in my house. Picking them up by the cross brace and the prop. makes it so darned easy to maneuver these big dudes around. You just want to make sure you have a good tight fit between the fuse sides and the cross brace. Baby, (260) has had hers forever. The Sukhoi got one when I built her. All the others followed suit.

I don't think we are the first to implement such and idea. But the lift handles sure beat the snot outta taking a risk of breaking your fuselage and having to open her up for surgery.

Photos of Babies lift handles:

Sukhoi lift handles:

Oh and for what it is worth.... the lift handles weigh like nothing. The weight is so negligible it is unimportant. Hope this answers your question.

Now I gotz to git busy stripping more skin from that sexy soon to be red head outfitted 330. Back with photos of progress in a bit.

 

[stangflyer]

So, where were we? Ah yes...making the 330 stabs/elevators and rudder naked. Nothing really too entailed about this process so I won't go into it too deep. Basically just do the reverse of your covering process. Remove the tops of the stabs/elevators then the bottoms and lastly the end caps. Rudder on the other hand is just as easy. One side first, then the other and of course the end caps.

Once the covering was removed from all surfaces, I did a real good looksee for any required repairs and what not. Happily, the rudder is perfect. A little light sanding and whipping off and ready for covering. The right stab and elevator however need just a little TLC. I won't need to remove any broken sheeting or replace any structure. Only minor scuffs and one tiny little crack in the sheeting on the bottom of one stab. This I will simply "wick" in a little "thin" CA and good to go. Nothing serious. The left stab looks as though it was "dragged" on pavement on a less than perfect landing. Hey, we've all been there right? I know I have. LOL. A few bumps and bruises but pretty darn good shape for being used. No big though. A little balsa filer in a few spots and they will also be ready for covering.

I really like the way the Pilots are built. Nothing like the crappy PAU 300 I bought three years ago brand new. Not to mention my sons 43% Edge. Broken "AT" the factory sheeting, ribs and you name it...then covered to hide the mess. Stab sheets that didn't even "butt" together. And the hardware? Oh yeah, that's another story. But again, happily....I no longer own that airframe. Shayne has since gone completely through his Edge before he completely recovered it a couple of years ago.

A few photos of the bare bones 330 stabs/elevators and Rudder.



Oh yeah....almost forgot. This 330 is actually a very "BIG" plane. It looks as though the fuse is almost as large in diameter as the Behemoth Yak. And if size comparison means anything.... the rudder should tell the story.

That is the Behemoth Yak (1) rudder hiding behind the rudder for the 330. Just almost as wide as the Yak. Not as tall, but not by much. I remember when @Joe Hunt assembled and flew his 330sc. His videos pretty much say it all. Smooth, precise, agile, stable as no tomorrow. And if I remember right, quite the floater. I am really looking forward to putting this big girl in the air..

Well stick a

in me. I'm done.... more tomorrow fellas.

 

[49dimes]

Your quite the expert at undressing things . Pretty hard putting the clothes back on .

 

[dhal22]

Great story. Keep writing it.

 

[Snoopy1]

Ok, here ya go Snoop..... Just a couple of photos of the way my son and I do our "BIG" birds. Well, actually it comes in handy on 35centers also. I think my Lil Yak-Ster will also get this set up as it is not so big or heavy. Just really no place to get hold of it without risking breaking all those long stringers that make the fuselage round.

Basically we select one of the cross braces in the top of the fuse that will allow us a reach between "that" cross brace and the prop. on the front of the engine. Near the CG is good, but it really doesn't matter. Just depends how heavy the fuse's are. My Behemoth Yak fuse comes in around 39 or 40 pounds. Of course once the wings and stabs are in place and the fuel tank is full of high test go go juice, she comes in a few more over 50'ish pounds. I can't remember for sure. I believe Shayne's PAU Edge is about the same. So the idea is to select a cross brace that will allow an evenly distributed weight between that brace and the prop. We glue in a Bass wood stringer on both bottom sides of the cross brace. Typically a 3/8" square or similar. Now obviously no one would "ever" think it wise to pick one of these big monsters up using a cross brace as a lifting handle. But believe it or not...once the Bass wood doubler/supports are in place....that cross brace becomes one of the strongest parts of the entire fuse. We've not had a single broken cross brace and you can't imagine how superb these "lift" handles come in handy. Since I have no garage, (at present) all my planes are stored in my house. Picking them up by the cross brace and the prop. makes it so darned easy to maneuver these big dudes around. You just want to make sure you have a good tight fit between the fuse sides and the cross brace. Baby, (260) has had hers forever. The Sukhoi got one when I built her. All the others followed suit.

I don't think we are the first to implement such and idea. But the lift handles sure beat the snot outta taking a risk of breaking your fuselage and having to open her up for surgery.

Photos of Babies lift handles:

View attachment 101597 View attachment 101598 View attachment 101599

Sukhoi lift handles:

View attachment 101600 View attachment 101601

Oh and for what it is worth.... the lift handles weigh like nothing. The weight is so negligible it is unimportant. Hope this answers your question.

Now I gotz to git busy stripping more skin from that sexy soon to be red head outfitted 330. Back with photos of progress in a bit.

Thanks for that, that is nice clean solution and very handy. Will remember that one for the future. And like you said that will have no effect on the weight.

 

[Snoopy1]

Looking like you did a good buy. Everything is in good shape just minor cosmetic stuff to fix. Have to agree with the parts do look big. It will be expensive to recover a plane that size almost roll just to do the rudder. Following with interest.

 

[stangflyer]

Looking like you did a good buy. Everything is in good shape just minor cosmetic stuff to fix. Have to agree with the parts do look big. It will be expensive to recover a plane that size almost roll just to do the rudder. Following with interest.

Thanks... I appreciate the comments and following. But really not that too expensive to recover. When I recovered Baby, I think I was somewhere around 160.00 dollars for covering. Total investment on Baby including covering was 560.00 dollars. Now I will say however that the 330 is slightly....well actually quite a bit larger by proportion than the 260, It still should not be too much. I expect the cost to come in near what the big Yak was. But remember, the big Yak recover was precut covering from Pilot so it was kind of spendy. A 10 meter roll of white, (which will be the base coat for the 330) is 80.00 through Horizon. The remaining colors are yet to be decided, but will probably end up getting a 10 meter roll of those as well. I will have a ton left over but in my opinion is the best option for getting splice free stripes and what not. I figure the cost of covering will be around 200.00 to 250.00. Which when you think about it....is still not bad. The 330 will in essence be a new airframe for less than half what a new one untouched one would cost. That is the cost of the plane plus the covering.

 

[stangflyer]

And speaking of covering, I am going to start covering the tail surfaces this evening. "IF" I have enough white to start. I managed a little time with the 330 tail surfaces this morning. I discovered something that perhaps many of you already know, but I myself did not realize. In really scrutinizing the stabs/elevators and rudder, I noticed a few more "impressions" in the wood than what I first thought. Kind of like being bumped or pushed on. Leaving small depressions in the wood. Totally unacceptable to me. Especially since I know that any great covering job is like any great paint job. Preparation makes all the difference. I didn't want to fill all these with filler. So I thought of ways I could bring back the balsa to a satisfactory look. I remembered from way back that if you "dampen" the balsa with a little water then gently rub it, the balsa will "spring" back to original shape. I remembered this from seeing wood that has gotten wet and it has "swelled" or become swollen. So what if I carefully dampen these problem areas with water? Will they swell back to their normal state? Actually? YES! They will.

First however, I sanded the few areas that I did put a little filler into. That "bumped" leading edge on the one stab. The other areas I added filler to were primarily areas where the wood sections were glued together at the factory that did not have a clean joint.



This particular spot is where the control horn was hyper extended and pushed right into the sheeting. Leaving a double horn impression. As mentioned, I dampened that area with a little water and gently rubbed the sheeting. That balsa sheeting popped right back to normal. Pretty cool I thought.



Another area of concern was right at the edge of one of the balsa sheets on the rudder. You can see how it was pushed hard enough that it warped the skin. Thankfully it did not break the rib that supported the surface.



There was also a slight scar in the surface of the wood. But after treating it with a little water and gently rubbing it, it too popped right back into perfect form. I thought this was really cool.



One other small "divot" in the other stab leading edge. Not a huge concern because I know when I cover it, the leading edge will get enough heat that that divot will be gone. But, I wanted to try the water technique on it as well. So, a little limitation for the expectations, but still turned out ok enough for me to not worry about it.



And one last little rub scar taken care of with a little water. Yes!!



I would say that the tail surfaces are just about as perfect as I can get them. Time to start laying down some covering.

 

[stangflyer]

I had just enough Ultracote White covering to get the left stab/elevator covered. Darn it anyway. I was hoping I had enough to get the other stab/elevator and rudder covered. Oh well, I guess I can get a single roll for those remaining surfaces. At least I got a start on it.

I decided to "seal" the hinge line using a different method than when I recovered the 260 and the Behemoth Yak (1). I think I am going to like this a lot better. What I did different was instead of leaving the covering over the hinges, I chose to cut the covering from each hinge. When I did the hinge lines on my other planes, they turned out really nice. But after 150'ish flights on Baby, the covering is starting to lift over each hinge. I will probably go back and cut the covering from all those hinges and reseal them before the hinge line covering comes up.



This is the hinge lines on the 260 and the Yak.

Dang I miss that big White and Green beast. I am going to have to get that thing rebuilt. Like I need another flyable big Yak. LOL.