Scale RCM 1/3 Scale Champ Build

[TonyHallo]

It was nine days since I last cut the grass due to rain, spent good part of the day tending to the grass, two passes. Did manage to get the joiner tubes fit onto the stab and elevator. Before the tubes are glued in place I want to have the holes drilled for the attachment bolting. Need to turn some aluminum stock down to the ID of joiner tubes for the stabilizer and steel for the elevator, (using steel on the elevator so that the control horn can be silver brazed on), then drill the tubes together. Before moving forward, need to reconfigure the lathe, the compound is currently installed and compounds on Harbor Freight 9x19 lathes are not the best.

 

[TonyHallo]

Spent the last couple of days been studying AN665 terminal tie rod ends and the lift strut fittings for the wing struts. Considered ordering flying wires from http://www.flying-wires.ch/flying-wires/index.html, these are some nice wires and fittings. Got to thinking about the DuBro rod ends and wondered what it might look like with a longer taper cut behind the pin hole. Based on dimensions for the web determined the taper on the AN665 terminal was approximately 9 degrees. Ended up turning 10 rod ends down before removing the compound. I like the way it turned out and plan to use 4-40 rod for the flying wires, two of the rod ends will be converted to male ends for the lift struts.

 

[TonyHallo]

Been thinking about drilling the holes for the joiner tubes for the past few days. This is what i decided to do, bought a 2'x4' piece of 7/16" OSB at Lowes. Cut the sheet down to size so that the jig will fit on the drill press for drilling the holes. With slow cure epoxy glued the tubes and hinges in place with the internal joiner tubes installed lubed up with Vasoline (Poor man's release agent), the assembly was screwed down with the trailing edges aligned straight then weighted down. Once the epoxy cures, the holes will be drilled.
Spent the remainder of the night drinking MGD's and converting the make shift router table into the buck for the rudder hoop. Used as many holes as possible from the wing hoop buck. This piece of 3/4" plywood has served me well on this build. The 1/8" x 1/2" spruce strips are soaking in ammonia until tomorrow night, hopefully the strips will bend around the buck without breaking, the plans show 1/16" thick strips, cheating here because I don't have any 1/16" strips on hand.

 

[TonyHallo]

The grandsons were late this morning so I was able to get the spruce strips on the buck this morning, there was not trouble bending the 1/8" thick strips around the buck after 8 hours in the household ammonia. Was able to glue up the strips after dinner tonight. Clear package tape is used as release agent between the buck and the strips.
Also managed to drill the stabilizer, it lays flat, slips off and on the center tubes and the elevator moves with binding, it is a little on the fat side, weights 17 ounces as shown below, all in all I'm happy. I don't expect any problem with distortion when shrinking the fabric. I'm hoping the plane comes in at less than forty pounds.

 

[Snoopy1]

Why does it have to be spruce around the perimeter, will balsa not do the trick. If not please explain.

 

[Bartman]

Spent the last couple of days been studying AN665 terminal tie rod ends and the lift strut fittings for the wing struts. Considered ordering flying wires from http://www.flying-wires.ch/flying-wires/index.html, these are some nice wires and fittings. Got to thinking about the DuBro rod ends and wondered what it might look like with a longer taper cut behind the pin hole. Based on dimensions for the web determined the taper on the AN665 terminal was approximately 9 degrees. Ended up turning 10 rod ends down before removing the compound. I like the way it turned out and plan to use 4-40 rod for the flying wires, two of the rod ends will be converted to male ends for the lift struts.

View attachment 109958

I see what you did there! what a great idea!

 

[TonyHallo]

Why does it have to be spruce around the perimeter, will balsa not do the trick. If not please explain.

It well could have, I'm not taking any chances. I used Stits once before and had terrible problems with the rudder and stabilizer deforming when heat stretching the fabric, I'm pretty sure I can pull the snot out of this structure. I can't remember having any problems with Sig Coverall and Stixit however that was a long time ago, I'm guessing it is a lighter fabric than Stits Lite for models. The same fabric is used on un-certified aircraft.

 

[acerc]

Just because Stits Polylite will shrink that much does not mean it has to.

 

[TonyHallo]

Just glued the last pieces on the rudder, all the sub assemblies are now built. Plan to spend tomorrow at the local OTB for the Kentucky Derby then head to Myrtle Beach on Sunday morning. Hope to spend a day or two at Joe Nall on the return trip, this will be my first trip at Joe Nall.

 

[49dimes]

Enjoy Nall. Looks like it is close to installing some RC goodies in that beauty so Nall visit just at the right time .