49dimes
Damn I'm hungry
YS did actually build a twin 120 four stroke proto before releasing the original F-120 single. Used to have a picture of it from the old RCM magazine but long gone
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The 'What did you do in your workshop tonight?' thread
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YS did actually build a twin 120 four stroke proto before releasing the original F-120 single. Used to have a picture of it from the old RCM magazine but long gone
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Snoopy1
640cc Uber Pimp
That is interesting I bid not know that. It would be nice if they would build a gas version of their engines.YS did actually build a twin 120 four stroke proto before releasing the original F-120 single. Used to have a picture of it from the old RCM magazine but long gone
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
Oh boy oh boy oh boy. More toys...
Guess I'll be tinkering with a certain becoming lil red head tonight. Cuz she be-coming along and flight ready very soon.
Guess I'll be tinkering with a certain becoming lil red head tonight. Cuz she be-coming along and flight ready very soon.
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
So no time like the present to install all those new updates on the new 106cs, right? Zactly...
First remove the original phenolic carb base and "rubberized" coated reed cage assembly. Sorry everyone. For those that do not know, 3W originally manufactured their engines with phenolic or plastic post carb components. That being the carb base, reed cage assembly and reed block assembly. Though they worked fine for some and for a good number of years, there have been many cases where after a period of time, the parts will start distorting and warping due to heat and cool down cycles. And age too. Causing air leaks and poor tuneability of the carburation system. The rubberized reed cages would "peel" after a period of time and also causing some issues. The reed blocks would split down the sides where the bolts go through. To stay on top of the game and maintain the highest degree of quality, 3w revised all the components. Now made of high quality aluminum components separated with gaskets, the "dub" engines continue to produce amazing power and dependability. And no more worries with worn out or faulty carb parts.
The carb is held on just like all other engines. Two nuts atop the carb and off it comes.
Next we remove the four retaining bolts in each of the four corners of the fuel induction system. Then remove the black plastic carb base plate.
Once the base plate is removed, gently lift off the rubberized coated reed cage assembly. After removing the reed cage assembly, the reed block housing can now be removed.
I really didn't need to do this step as it will stay the same. But even though this engine had never seen fuel or even started, I still wanted to put "ALL" new gaskets throughout. Besides, I needed a reason (excuse) to gander inside the workings of this little monster giant. Oh how I love looking inside a red head. LOL
Once I was satisfied all the parts were present and accounted for....LOL....I began re-assembling the 106. First, the same gasket sealer used by 3w in Germany.
In fact, it turns out there are many manufacturers that "insist" on this particular assembly sealer. Mercedes, Lexus, Ferrari, Jaguar just to name a few. Hmm, "dubs" are in good company. Anyway, a little gasket sealer, (not much, just enough to lightly coat the parameter of the mated parts, and a gasket between the engine and the reed block housing.
Another film of sealer and then the gasket that separates the reed block and the reed cage assemblies.
Must not forget the sealer between the gasket and the reed cage.
Next comes another film of sealer and the gasket between the top of the reed cage and the carb base plate. Must also remember to line up the slot in the gasket with the "vent" holes in the reed cage assembly.
By the way, putting the gaskets on dry is ok. The parts will actually seal quite nicely without it. However it was recommended by the "G" man to do it like 3w does at the factory. Plus the sealer is a little insurance policy of no leaks. So, no skimping on this step.
Next...yup, you guessed it. Another light film of sealer on the gasket between the reed cage and the carb base plate. And this plate also needs to have the vent holes lined up as well.
Once all the pieces are set into place, the retaining bolts can be re-inserted. Before I tighten them down, I will make sure everything is aligned and squared up.
Once I was satisfied with a true fit of all the parts, I snugged the bolts down in a criss cross pattern. Then a good "tight" torque with a nut driver. That is about all that is needed to secure these parts. No need for tension torque on any of these bolts.
Once final tightening is done, two carb gaskets sandwiching a "heat" insulator between them, then the Tillotson carb and the "3w snorkel intake".
Install the two retaining nuts and the diaphragm balance tube. Another side note here: The carb retaining nuts need no tension torque on them. They strip out very easily. Ask me how I know this little artifact of information. Just snug them down and a final "hand tighten" with a socket and you're good to go.
And looking even more sexy than she did an hour earlier, the 106cs is ready for the exhaust.
Alas, the 3w headers I purchased for this engine do not have a "deep" enough drop. Plus the geometry is off so they will have to go back to Aircraft International. I took a stab in the dark hoping they would be the right fit. I will have to go with the alternative headers. They are the double bend headers and should give me exactly what I will need to make the connection to the KS 5 canisters that are on the way. I was hoping to get the now 3w powered Pilot Edge out this weekend for some trial runs and fun in the sun. I guess it will have to wait until next weekend. Oh well, not like I don't have some projects to keep me busy until then right?
I did get the new cowl for the Cessna fitted and ready to install. So I may take it and the 3w 70 twin Pitts out flying this weekend. The assembly of the Behemoth Yaks brother has been going slow. But mostly because I want it "PERFECT". Well, as perfect as I can make it that is. LOL
First remove the original phenolic carb base and "rubberized" coated reed cage assembly. Sorry everyone. For those that do not know, 3W originally manufactured their engines with phenolic or plastic post carb components. That being the carb base, reed cage assembly and reed block assembly. Though they worked fine for some and for a good number of years, there have been many cases where after a period of time, the parts will start distorting and warping due to heat and cool down cycles. And age too. Causing air leaks and poor tuneability of the carburation system. The rubberized reed cages would "peel" after a period of time and also causing some issues. The reed blocks would split down the sides where the bolts go through. To stay on top of the game and maintain the highest degree of quality, 3w revised all the components. Now made of high quality aluminum components separated with gaskets, the "dub" engines continue to produce amazing power and dependability. And no more worries with worn out or faulty carb parts.
The carb is held on just like all other engines. Two nuts atop the carb and off it comes.
Next we remove the four retaining bolts in each of the four corners of the fuel induction system. Then remove the black plastic carb base plate.
Once the base plate is removed, gently lift off the rubberized coated reed cage assembly. After removing the reed cage assembly, the reed block housing can now be removed.
I really didn't need to do this step as it will stay the same. But even though this engine had never seen fuel or even started, I still wanted to put "ALL" new gaskets throughout. Besides, I needed a reason (excuse) to gander inside the workings of this little monster giant. Oh how I love looking inside a red head. LOL
Once I was satisfied all the parts were present and accounted for....LOL....I began re-assembling the 106. First, the same gasket sealer used by 3w in Germany.
In fact, it turns out there are many manufacturers that "insist" on this particular assembly sealer. Mercedes, Lexus, Ferrari, Jaguar just to name a few. Hmm, "dubs" are in good company. Anyway, a little gasket sealer, (not much, just enough to lightly coat the parameter of the mated parts, and a gasket between the engine and the reed block housing.
Another film of sealer and then the gasket that separates the reed block and the reed cage assemblies.
Must not forget the sealer between the gasket and the reed cage.
Next comes another film of sealer and the gasket between the top of the reed cage and the carb base plate. Must also remember to line up the slot in the gasket with the "vent" holes in the reed cage assembly.
By the way, putting the gaskets on dry is ok. The parts will actually seal quite nicely without it. However it was recommended by the "G" man to do it like 3w does at the factory. Plus the sealer is a little insurance policy of no leaks. So, no skimping on this step.
Next...yup, you guessed it. Another light film of sealer on the gasket between the reed cage and the carb base plate. And this plate also needs to have the vent holes lined up as well.
Once all the pieces are set into place, the retaining bolts can be re-inserted. Before I tighten them down, I will make sure everything is aligned and squared up.
Once I was satisfied with a true fit of all the parts, I snugged the bolts down in a criss cross pattern. Then a good "tight" torque with a nut driver. That is about all that is needed to secure these parts. No need for tension torque on any of these bolts.
Once final tightening is done, two carb gaskets sandwiching a "heat" insulator between them, then the Tillotson carb and the "3w snorkel intake".
Install the two retaining nuts and the diaphragm balance tube. Another side note here: The carb retaining nuts need no tension torque on them. They strip out very easily. Ask me how I know this little artifact of information. Just snug them down and a final "hand tighten" with a socket and you're good to go.
And looking even more sexy than she did an hour earlier, the 106cs is ready for the exhaust.
Alas, the 3w headers I purchased for this engine do not have a "deep" enough drop. Plus the geometry is off so they will have to go back to Aircraft International. I took a stab in the dark hoping they would be the right fit. I will have to go with the alternative headers. They are the double bend headers and should give me exactly what I will need to make the connection to the KS 5 canisters that are on the way. I was hoping to get the now 3w powered Pilot Edge out this weekend for some trial runs and fun in the sun. I guess it will have to wait until next weekend. Oh well, not like I don't have some projects to keep me busy until then right?
I did get the new cowl for the Cessna fitted and ready to install. So I may take it and the 3w 70 twin Pitts out flying this weekend. The assembly of the Behemoth Yaks brother has been going slow. But mostly because I want it "PERFECT". Well, as perfect as I can make it that is. LOL
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HRRC Flyer
GSN Sponsor Tier 1
Hey Rob,
Where did you get the tube of gasket maker?
Where did you get the tube of gasket maker?
Snoopy1
640cc Uber Pimp
If this is a brand new engine why bib it not come with the aluminum top section, or this an up grade that you wanted to do. Nice looking engine, sure is nice to work on quality equipment.
stangflyer
I like 'em "BIG"!
Believe it or not David...Ebay of all places. Crap, anything you're looking for can be found on eBay. Lol
Yup, brand new. However purchased long before 3w started sending them with all the upgrades. I bought this from my buddy who bought it new years ago but never used it. So, on the shelf it sat. That is until I got my grimy mitts on it. The upgrades didn't "have" to be done at this moment. However would have needed it eventually. Figured git er done, and be done wit it.
is knowing you helped a buddy get his plane running good and your ability to share with out bias 
is the best tool in your shop. Of course it helps when the equipment behaves as it should making you look good 
.
Terryscustom
640cc Uber Pimp
Finished converting my 125" 330SC from the DLE222 to the ZDZ195 / JMB cans. Looking forward to flying this next week sometime.
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