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The 'What did you do in your workshop tonight?' thread

49dimes

Damn I'm hungry
No appreciate that I do just about exactly the same as you except for th NordLock washers which I am going to use this time. I just stumbled over the specified torque and looked at it and did not make much sense to me. The only thing that I have changed lately is instead of blue locktite I cover the threads going into the cylinder head with red high temp gasket sealer I believe it is also known as RTV.

My Ultra Copper was all dried up and the auto parts was out but did have Ultra Grey so I'm giving it a try. IMO the best thing to have on hand is brand new bolts that have not been stretched. I use a flat washer and lock washer and one drop of red. Never had one come loose.
No leaks. The Ultra Grey is for high torque high temp applications. Says good for -65 to 500 F. Put a coat on bring the surface's together and only tighten lightly by hand. Let stand for 1 hour. Back out 1 bolt at a time and apply lock tight. Once both bolts are back in place torque them down tight. I just use my judgement on how tight they are like Rob.

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Jetpainter

640cc Uber Pimp
The top pink one I could not live with. With the pipe sticking out the top in the centre and blowing all the exhaust residue all over the rudder and stabilizer would be to much for me to clean. It must come out the bottom with a reasonable extension then it is fine with me I do not mind cleaning a plane. To be honest if glow is done properly it is no more work than batteries I have found. First you to change them and get them ready to go flying and then when you get home they need to be balanced and set to storage charge which all takes time.
I do all my charging, discharging, and balancing/storage charging at the field since we have power, so I'm spoiled.;)
 

Jetpainter

640cc Uber Pimp
No work in the shop tonight, but I did spend so money. I figured I'd do my part to keep Tanner employed by buying some Hitec servos, and a new Hitec charger.;)
I wanted a small charger to take to the field to charge receiver batteries instead of my big PowerLab setup. The PowerLab is awesome when I want to charge multiple 6S 5000's at the same time, but not necessary for two 2S packs. The one I bought is AC/DC and can charge/discharge two packs at once, so it was perfect for my needs.
 

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
My Ultra Copper was all dried up and the auto parts was out but did have Ultra Grey so I'm giving it a try. IMO the best thing to have on hand is brand new bolts that have not been stretched. I use a flat washer and lock washer and one drop of red. Never had one come loose.
No leaks. The Ultra Grey is for high torque high temp applications. Says good for -65 to 500 F. Put a coat on bring the surface's together and only tighten lightly by hand. Let stand for 1 hour. Back out 1 bolt at a time and apply lock tight. Once both bolts are back in place torque them down tight. I just use my judgement on how tight they are like Rob.

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You are following the same as the rest of us I believe but the one difference is that you are using red, what I have found and a rule of thumb is not to use red locktite at 1/4 of an inch and less. My experience if applied as directed the bolt will shear off and not come out and that has been my experience.
 

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
I do all my charging, discharging, and balancing/storage charging at the field since we have power, so I'm spoiled.;)
Have to agree that is nice to have and you ou are spoiled.
I believe if we had power on site I would look into bigger and more powerful electric planes but for now 3S and 3000 mAH is all I can handle. Taking 6 packs to the field just about kills my charging battery.
 
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49dimes

Damn I'm hungry
You are following the same as the rest of us I believe but the one difference is that you are using red, what I have found and a rule of thumb is not to use red locktite at 1/4 of an inch and less. My experience if applied as directed the bolt will shear off and not come out and that has been my experience.

I have always used red. I have not had problems but did at first. The key to remember with red is that it must get hot and ash to get it out or it will cause hex heads to shear off. Once it goes on that's it. I have sheared bolts when I first started using it but it was because I installed a muffler and needed to take it off before running the engine a few times :mad:. Lessons learned the hard way :confused:. But I do agree for other applications I would never use red on bolts less than 1/4- 20 or 6mm.
 

Alky6

150cc
Ok gentleman need some help and info on this imperial system used. The specifications on the exhaust bolts were as follows 91 in/oz. this does not make sense a torque is in*oz not a division??. Next question is if they meant 91 in*oz. then the torque wrench I have reads in lbs*inch so to convert that it would be 5.69 lbs*inch. Am I correct if so that is not much even if you hold a Allen wrench on the short end you can easily exceed that torque. Please advise.
Your calc is correct. Their units must be wrong. I also subscribe to the feel method others have described here. Only time I break out a torque wrench is to tighten the heads on a Detroit diesel. And haven’t done that since the late 90’s.
 

Snoopy1

640cc Uber Pimp
Got all the old text books out and my old machinery hand book out and after trying to get some of that old grey matter working again as far as I can figure out from theory a 5mm bolt going into aluminum at a decent grade of material and using a steel bolt the torque should be 14 in- lbs minimum. And maximum 19.2 in-lbs. hope that you gentleman agree.
 

49dimes

Damn I'm hungry
Got all the old text books out and my old machinery hand book out and after trying to get some of that old grey matter working again as far as I can figure out from theory a 5mm bolt going into aluminum at a decent grade of material and using a steel bolt the torque should be 14 in- lbs minimum. And maximum 19.2 in-lbs. hope that you gentleman agree.

I was a SNIPE in the NAVY. Two things I could do is break an anvil and wear out a needle gun :black-eye:. Was known to push a mean 'redlead" brush too!:fist_pump:.
 
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