The 'What did you do in your workshop tonight?' thread

[Snoopy1]

I was a SNIPE in the NAVY. Two things I could do is break an anvil and wear out a needle gun . Was known to push a mean 'redlead" brush too!.

You are going to have bare with me have zero Navy experience or military do not know what it means so you need to explain what a SNIPE is and Needle gun is sorry.

 

[Snoopy1]

Well cleaned up my last summer plane that is it for the year. Ran the engine with that special fuel then oiled the motor and removed the batteries. Checked everything and cleaned the plane ready to be put away till next spring. Will have to find my winter plane and the skies. And get it ready for the winter. That will be a big change for me from a DA85 down to a 45 glow.

 

[49dimes]

You are going to have bare with me have zero Navy experience or military do not know what it means so you need to explain what a SNIPE is and Needle gun is sorry.

If my history is right....SNIPE was a term afforded by infantrymen to boat engineers who also operated the landing craft (Boat) during WWII. As the operator you got to sit in an armored cab in the craft as to avoid sniper fire wile the infantry or soldiers you where transporting sat in an open bay on the craft to be had like sitting ducks under enemy fire. Machinists Mates (My Rating in the Navy) and Engineman were the primary Navy personnel rates assigned to small boat duty or personnel transport along with Boatswains Mates.

A needle gun is nothing more than a pneumatic hammer used to chip paint off the ships hull or main machinery for maintenance / preservation. Red lead was the primer used before applying a coat of machinery gray or hull gray.

 

[Jetpainter]

Your calc is correct. Their units must be wrong. I also subscribe to the feel method others have described here. Only time I break out a torque wrench is to tighten the heads on a Detroit diesel. And haven’t done that since the late 90’s.

The most fun are the bolts they use in the auto industry now days. Tighten it to 50 ft pounds then turn it another 38 degrees and crap like that. One time stretch head bolts.

I do torque my prop bolts now. I was shocked at how tight 90 inch pounds was. I was never anywhere close to that before.

 

[49dimes]

Got the first start under my belt with a bit of at first.......

Got every thing set up and ready and started flipping.....and flipping.....and flipping.....more flipping.....more flipping.......ugh more flipping then the light came on . Yep. it was really flooded BAD . Pulled the plug and about a 1/4 teaspoon of fuel dribbled out. Hmn....
What has gone wrong here??? . Checked for spark and what'd ya know? . No spark. So for the next 30 minutes I chased it down to the pick up sensor . It had become loose inside the housing and pulled back away from the very end . A bit of CA cured me woe .

Got everything back together and a running engine! I flipped it 4 times to clear the cylinder. Went hot / Choke on and it hit on 2 flips! Started on the first flip!

Not that much more quiet than I hoped for but it runs great and I can tell it is hitting much stronger / harder than before the rebuild . Ran a full 18oz tank cycling the heat between 250 and 160 keeping rpm under 5K. Let things cool to ambient and filled the tank again. Started on 3 flips of choke and 2 flips to a running engine. Set the HS needle and achieved 6700 rpm static (Xoar Sword 23x8). Fine tuned the low end for smooth throttle response with no leaning or richening when returning to idle or transitioning from idle to full power. It should fly 18.5 pounds just fine



Starting vid

 

[stangflyer]

Sa-weeeeet!!! 6700 on a first start rebuild? Nicely done Kelly. Very nicely done. I would think it is going to do juuuuust fine on that plane. I am so excited!! I can't wait to see a maiden video.

 

[49dimes]

LOL I was beginning to dance in a similar fashion BEFORE getting it started

 

[49dimes]

Hey Rob is it just me or do the semi-conductor pick ups seem to be a tad smaller than before? I don't have an older one to compare but did not you have a similar problem?

 

[stangflyer]

Hey Rob is it just me or do the semi-conductor pick ups seem to be a tad smaller than before? I don't have an older one to compare but did not you have a similar problem?

I can not be certain as I don't recall seeing a previous version. However, I do feel they are quite small. My problem was actually a dead hall sensor. I do know however that if the sensor, (semi-conductor) is not placed at the correct distance from the magnet, it doesn't matter how good it is. It will not sense the polarity that sends the pulse to the ignition module. That being said, I am not telling you anything you don't already know. I just try to keep the airspace between the pickup and the magnet at a bare minimum without allowing them to contact during hub rotation. And most definitely I place the sensor directly dead center above the magnet. I have noticed that the further away the sensor is from the magnet...there is a point that the spark becomes unreliable. I think this can contribute to some fellas having a rough idle, midrange or high end miss. Donnie did state that even though he got the BE 62 running...."somewhat" for just a few ounces of fuel, I believe the whole issue was two things. One: I believe the sensor was too far away from the magnet. And Two: I feel the original ignition module had problems much like the one that was on my BE 124. There were other issues with the engine as well that was affecting it running properly. What I can say for all certainty is that 62 runs like a champ. Not a single issue.

 

[49dimes]

After almost 2 full tanks and a few good heat cycles the ultra grey seems to be doing its job. As you can see were all that oily carbon residue ended up. Did I mention exhaust extensions??? and a good black Sharpe!