The 'What did you do in your workshop tonight?' thread

[Snoopy1]

The filter is an Oregon 30-301 (for Techumse small engine) available at Walmart / Home Depot / Hardware etc..Couple of bucks.

To adapt it to the velocity stack I cut the rubber bulb from a Danco flapper and secured it to the filter with a nylon wire tie. I did trim the outer portion of the rubber cap on one end of the filter for a better fit to the flapper bulb.

I made the filter end plug/support from a gas fuel bung stopper.

View attachment 100297 View attachment 100298 View attachment 100299

I don't believe it will affect performance unless it becomes very dirty / fuel soaked. It should make the engine super quiet with the canister. I will give a video report once it is in operation.

Thanks for that, nice setup now if only I can remember where the info is when I need it thanks for that.

 

[Alky6]

Thanks for that, nice setup now if only I can remember where the info is when I need it thanks for that.

Yep, Snoopy beat me to the question. I also look forward to the flight report and performance. @49dimes , Will you do a with and without the filter test run? You guys both have some pretty creative ideas!

 

[Alky6]

After everything is sorted out in the motor box I glued in the top cover plate. Sealed the motor box with some thinned down epoxy.
Made a start on the modifications to the cowl. Have to change it from a cowl that used to fit a DA85 to DA100L. Made a start on sealing all the holes in the bottom half. Laid a piece of Fiberglas cloth on the inside . And now I keep looking at it not knowing exactly how to do it. Do I just keep filling the holes from the outside with Fiberglas cloth or lay a piece of balsa in the holes and then glass over it. If someone has done this let me how you did it thanks. Also going to split the cowl in half after all the holes on bottom are sealed and fixed.

View attachment 100295 View attachment 100296

I repaired a cowl after it was damaged in shipping. I would suggest taking some of finishing epoxy resin and mix it with cabosil until you get a mashed potatoes like consistency. Then fill in the holes from the outside (you already have the structural on the inside with the cloth you used) using a flexible putty knife. The better job you do here, the less you have to sand later. Wet sanding goes the fastest. That is how I would do it. Might need to do a couple of fills to get it right.

 

[49dimes]

Yep, Snoopy beat me to the question. I also look forward to the flight report and performance. @49dimes , Will you do a with and without the filter test run? You guys both have some pretty creative ideas!

All I'm going to do is make a vid of the first start and run and demonstrate how quiet it is. The first two tanks of fuel @4Krpm or less and watching CHT. When maiden comes and I tune for the first flights then I will get some RPM and thrust numbers along with db reading. No plans to remove the filter. The DL50 should swing a 23x8 Xoar 6800/7000 in good weather. I'm most interested in noise reduction but want really good torque through the rpm range with smooth throttle response. Since I'm running redline 32:1 from the get go we wont see how strong it is until 5 to 7 gallons have passed through it. I did flip the engine over when I had the prop on and the "usual noise" was completely absent! The prop bounced back and forth like a glow motor after flipping it! No rod end bearing noise (clanky) either!

 

[Snoopy1]

All I'm going to do is make a vid of the first start and run and demonstrate how quiet it is. The first two tanks of fuel @4Krpm or less and watching CHT. When maiden comes and I tune for the first flights then I will get some RPM and thrust numbers along with db reading. No plans to remove the filter. The DL50 should swing a 23x8 Xoar 6800/7000 in good weather. I'm most interested in noise reduction but want really good torque through the rpm range with smooth throttle response. Since I'm running redline 32:1 from the get go we wont see how strong it is until 5 to 7 gallons have passed through it. I did flip the engine over when I had the prop on and the "usual noise" was completely absent! The prop bounced back and forth like a glow motor after flipping it! No rod end bearing noise (clanky) either!

Sounds like you got most of it under control. You will get quite amount of noise reduction from the filter. Air in take noise is pretty loud. I did add a filter on my DA150 it made a marked difference, the filter was made byDA but did see about a 50 RPM drop but not sure if the tack is that accurate.

 

[Snoopy1]

I repaired a cowl after it was damaged in shipping. I would suggest taking some of finishing epoxy resin and mix it with cabosil until you get a mashed potatoes like consistency. Then fill in the holes from the outside (you already have the structural on the inside with the cloth you used) using a flexible putty knife. The better job you do here, the less you have to sand later. Wet sanding goes the fastest. That is how I would do it. Might need to do a couple of fills to get it right.

I was thinking down the same road as you have explained but seeing that I have never had to fill in a hole this big I was having second thoughts. I will just have go at it and not over think it. I could be hesitant because they are no longer available from AEROWORKS. I checked around and I could not find anyone that made a cowl for the AW 85cc 260Extra.

 

[Jetpainter]

I haven't been doing much in the shop lately, but I have been doing a little research to get ready for a project I want to do this winter.

I bought a kit for a Tipo 750 a few years ago and I've decided I really need to get on it.
For those of you that aren't old, a Tipo was a pattern airplane from 1980 or so, when pattern airplanes were screaming .61 tuned pipe speed demons. This one is going to be electric, probably 6S, but maybe 8S to get the performance I want.

With a little help from @Xpress I've made up my mind on what Hitec servos I'm going to run. When this airplane was all the rage, servo were nothing like they are now, so I'm planning on running Hitec HS-5245MG mini's on the flight surfaces. They're way better than what was used back then, and weigh less.

The retracts will be mechanical with a Hitec HS-75BB on the mains. I'm not sure what I'm going to use to retract the nose gear yet. Lot's of decisions to make.

I may do a little Black Friday shopping for a few things.

 

[Snoopy1]

I haven't been doing much in the shop lately, but I have been doing a little research to get ready for a project I want to do this winter.

View attachment 100310

I bought a kit for a Tipo 750 a few years ago and I've decided I really need to get on it.
For those of you that aren't old, a Tipo was a pattern airplane from 1980 or so, when pattern airplanes were screaming .61 tuned pipe speed demons. This one is going to be electric, probably 6S, but maybe 8S to get the performance I want.

With a little help from @Xpress I've made up my mind on what Hitec servos I'm going to run. When this airplane was all the rage, servo were nothing like they are now, so I'm planning on running Hitec HS-5245MG mini's on the flight surfaces. They're way better than what was used back then, and weigh less.

The retracts will be mechanical with a Hitec HS-75BB on the mains. I'm not sure what I'm going to use to retract the nose gear yet. Lot's of decisions to make.

I may do a little Black Friday shopping for a few things.

That should be interesting to follow if you did a build thread. I built a 80,s pattern plane and enlarged it to 82 inch wingspan and put in a 3W-42 gas engine. Fly’s great and does almost everything but just does not hall the mail just to slow compared to old pattern planes. But I still like taking it now and then and flying it. All I can say is make sure that it has one hell off a lot of power. And let’s not forget the paint job.

 

[49dimes]

Built a receiver tray for the Extra. The AR9140T and 3 remotes was a bit different installing than my old Futaba's but it REALLY looks to be a ROBUST Rx. Need to get some of those telemetry thingy's for it too .

 

[dhal22]

I haven't been doing much in the shop lately, but I have been doing a little research to get ready for a project I want to do this winter.

View attachment 100310

I bought a kit for a Tipo 750 a few years ago and I've decided I really need to get on it.
For those of you that aren't old, a Tipo was a pattern airplane from 1980 or so, when pattern airplanes were screaming .61 tuned pipe speed demons. This one is going to be electric, probably 6S, but maybe 8S to get the performance I want.

With a little help from @Xpress I've made up my mind on what Hitec servos I'm going to run. When this airplane was all the rage, servo were nothing like they are now, so I'm planning on running Hitec HS-5245MG mini's on the flight surfaces. They're way better than what was used back then, and weigh less.

The retracts will be mechanical with a Hitec HS-75BB on the mains. I'm not sure what I'm going to use to retract the nose gear yet. Lot's of decisions to make.

I may do a little Black Friday shopping for a few things.

Rcaair kit?