The 'What did you do in your workshop tonight?' thread

[Jetpainter]

Rcaair kit?

Yeah it's one of Don's. I'm a little disappointed with the glass work on this one, but I can make it work. Leo at one time offered me a screaming deal on one of his, but I never went through with it. I arranged a buyer for his large stockpile of big block Chevy parts, Muncie transmissions, 12 bolt rear ends, and other parts. The guy bought everything he had so Leo kind of owes me one. Actually I owed the guy that bought all the stuff several favors so it all works out in the end.

 

[dhal22]

I have a P-8 and an Atlanta 60 kit of his but have never started them. His Wildbeat kit came from copies of my actual MK kit parts. Same with his Cosmos kit.

 

[Snoopy1]

I haven't been doing much in the shop lately, but I have been doing a little research to get ready for a project I want to do this winter.

View attachment 100310

I bought a kit for a Tipo 750 a few years ago and I've decided I really need to get on it.
For those of you that aren't old, a Tipo was a pattern airplane from 1980 or so, when pattern airplanes were screaming .61 tuned pipe speed demons. This one is going to be electric, probably 6S, but maybe 8S to get the performance I want.

With a little help from @Xpress I've made up my mind on what Hitec servos I'm going to run. When this airplane was all the rage, servo were nothing like they are now, so I'm planning on running Hitec HS-5245MG mini's on the flight surfaces. They're way better than what was used back then, and weigh less.

The retracts will be mechanical with a Hitec HS-75BB on the mains. I'm not sure what I'm going to use to retract the nose gear yet. Lot's of decisions to make.

I may do a little Black Friday shopping for a few things.

Are showing two pattern planes in the picture at first I only saw the lighter coloured one in for ground, but their is a second darker coloured one in the background which one are you talking about. The larger one what size is it , that looks quit a bit bigger. Bigger is always better.

 

[Jetpainter]

Are showing two pattern planes in the picture at first I only saw the lighter coloured one in for ground, but their is a second darker coloured one in the background which one are you talking about. The larger one what size is it , that looks quit a bit bigger. Bigger is always better.

The one in the back is a Dr. Jekyll II. It's a 72" span and 77" long.

 

[HRRC Flyer]

Hey @Jetpainter,

If you come to your senses and decide to put a screaming 2 stroke in your Tipo, I can probably hook you up. . . . . .

 

[Jetpainter]

Hey @Jetpainter,

If you come to your senses and decide to put a screaming 2 stroke in your Tipo, I can probably hook you up. . . . . .

I would, but the whole idea of this one is to take it to the field on the days when I'm flying an EDF jet, or a helicopter.

I will build another for glow some day as much as I hate the thought of cleaning one. Probably an EU-1A or a Phoenix 8.

 

[Snoopy1]

I would, but the whole idea of this one is to take it to the field on the days when I'm flying an EDF jet, or a helicopter.

I will build another for glow some day as much as I hate the thought of cleaning one. Probably an EU-1A or a Phoenix 8.

View attachment 100331 View attachment 100332

The top pink one I could not live with. With the pipe sticking out the top in the centre and blowing all the exhaust residue all over the rudder and stabilizer would be to much for me to clean. It must come out the bottom with a reasonable extension then it is fine with me I do not mind cleaning a plane. To be honest if glow is done properly it is no more work than batteries I have found. First you to change them and get them ready to go flying and then when you get home they need to be balanced and set to storage charge which all takes time.

 

[Snoopy1]

Ok gentleman need some help and info on this imperial system used. The specifications on the exhaust bolts were as follows 91 in/oz. this does not make sense a torque is in*oz not a division??. Next question is if they meant 91 in*oz. then the torque wrench I have reads in lbs*inch so to convert that it would be 5.69 lbs*inch. Am I correct if so that is not much even if you hold a Allen wrench on the short end you can easily exceed that torque. Please advise.

 

[stangflyer]

Ok gentleman need some help and info on this imperial system used. The specifications on the exhaust bolts were as follows 91 in/oz. this does not make sense a torque is in*oz not a division??. Next question is if they meant 91 in*oz. then the torque wrench I have reads in lbs*inch so to convert that it would be 5.69 lbs*inch. Am I correct if so that is not much even if you hold a Allen wrench on the short end you can easily exceed that torque. Please advise.

If it helps, I do not worry about torque on exhaust bolts. My method: Make sure threads are clean and dry on both cylinder flange and bolts. Get proper size "Nord" locks for bolts. You may or may not need to get slightly longer bolts to accommodate the thickness of the Nord lock. I try to bury as much thread on exhaust and prop bolts that I can. Apply one drop "Blue" Loc Tite to exhaust bolts. Insert and tighten pretty much as tight as I can. Without ripping the treads put of course. I've not lost any mufflers or headers since I started following this practice religiously. Don't forget the red high temp gasket sealer on both sides of your gasket to insure no leakage. Nothing irritates me more than to have exhaust residue and unspent oil running down my shiny headers or mufflers. Plus, them darn leaks just seem to splatter on your front former and airframe. I do however torque my props. Same process, but no Loc Tite.
Hope that offers some help. Sorry I can't directly respond to your exact question.

 

[Snoopy1]

If it helps, I do not worry about torque on exhaust bolts. My method: Make sure threads are clean and dry on both cylinder flange and bolts. Get proper size "Nord" locks for bolts. You may or may not need to get slightly longer bolts to accommodate the thickness of the Nord lock. I try to bury as much thread on exhaust and prop bolts that I can. Apply one drop "Blue" Loc Tite to exhaust bolts. Insert and tighten pretty much as tight as I can. Without ripping the treads put of course. I've not lost any mufflers or headers since I started following this practice religiously. Don't forget the red high temp gasket sealer on both sides of your gasket to insure no leakage. Nothing irritates me more than to have exhaust residue and unspent oil running down my shiny headers or mufflers. Plus, them darn leaks just seem to splatter on your front former and airframe. I do however torque my props. Same process, but no Loc Tite.
Hope that offers some help. Sorry I can't directly respond to your exact question.

No appreciate that I do just about exactly the same as you except for th NordLock washers which I am going to use this time. I just stumbled over the specified torque and looked at it and did not make much sense to me. The only thing that I have changed lately is instead of blue locktite I cover the threads going into the cylinder head with red high temp gasket sealer I believe it is also known as RTV.