Build Log Top Flite P-40E Warhawk Gold Edition kit

[rcdude07]

Thanks the bell crank after I installed had way to much drag. from the friction between the inner and outer liners so Im just going to scrap it I like the idea of using seperate servos anyway instead of all that linkage. Ill use the same thickness of ply on the hatches that I used for the ribs. Do you use hardwood blocks or balsa for your mounting blocks glued to the hatches to mount the servos on?

My plan is to use the same thickness ply as the sheeting. I have been taught to NEVER rely on soft balsa for holding screws. So I plan to use hard balsa blocks. I have been taught (from this modeler's years of experience) screw threads in hard balsa are much stronger and more resilient. Even dropping thin CA in the screw holes in soft balsa is not as strong, the block around the screw hole becomes the weak point. My kit didn't have hard balsa block for the rudder's control horn mounting block. So my plan is to cut off the top to a certain thickness and glue a piece of plywood on top so the screws have some good strong wood to bite into and hold.

 

[rcdude07]

*deleted*

 

[Charles]

That is a good Idea, Think Im just going to buy some hard balsa It isnt that expensive. Are you doing to une ply on your servo hatch cover mounts? On secont thought I'm Going to get a small sheet of 1/4 inch ply and cut some blocks on it to mount the servos onto the ply servo hatches.

 

[Charles]

Since we are using seperate servos for left and right alerons how do you wire them up so they will operate opposite without using two channels?

 

[rcdude07]

Since we are using seperate servos for left and right alerons how do you wire them up so they will operate opposite without using two channels?

Y harness off the RX. The direction of travel will depend on which side you put the servo arm on. Put them on opposite sides, and they'll move opposite, I'd you keep the servos facing the same way. If you put them on the same side with the servos facing the same way, they will move the same direction, for the flaps.

Makes sense? If not I can get pics from my Great Planes .60 Extra 300 and GWS P-38, which use separate servos fro ailerons via y harness off the Rx.

 

[rcdude07]

Finally got a little time on the build today. Got the soldering done for the tail wheel, the nylon joint ball installed, and the wheel collar for height in place. The other time I was trying to fix my magnet mod for my GWS P-38 canopy.

 

[rcdude07]

9-16-14
Picked out the #4x3/8" screws from the hw bag that are used to hold the back end of the nylon fastener in place. Not enough time this AM during a feeding to mix a small amount of epoxy to hold the other end in place. I'm not a fan of this epoxy step, but I don't have a supply of left over screws to pull from, plus there wouldn't be much room for a screw to be used properly.

9-18-14
Mixed some 5 Minute epoxy this morning and set it to dry today to get moving this weekend with the rest of the build. Looking to fly on Saturday (maiden the new Parkzone SU-29MM), so hoping to do more gluing on Sunday.

 

[Charles]

I"m thinking about installing a robart retractable tail wheel and Ting off the air supply to my mail retracts. any suggestions? Do you think a 160 would be to big or should I use a 121 and steering the tail wheel would then become a problem since the steering mechanism would have to be flexable encogh to accomidate the raising and lowering of the wheel.

 

[rcdude07]

I"m thinking about installing a robart retractable tail wheel and Ting off the air supply to my mail retracts. any suggestions? Do you think a 160 would be to big or should I use a 121 and steering the tail wheel would then become a problem since the steering mechanism would have to be flexable encogh to accomidate the raising and lowering of the wheel.

I'm not that familiar with these assemblies, but a quick Googling shows me that it looks like these are designed for a pull-pull setup for steering. I see two options:
1. 1 servo, pull pull to tail wheel and try to setup pull pull to the rudder from the tail wheel. Only issue here is whether or not the steering would still happen when retracted.

2. Two servos, one for wheel and one for rudder. Either y'd off one channel or two channels with software mixing in the TX. Pull pull on the wheel and standard setup for rudder.


Again, I'm not experienced here, but that's what I'm thinking after 15 minutes of searching the web.

 

[Charles]

I went on Robarts site and the 121 retract is the one recomended for the plane we are building but like Robart does they really dont give you any solutions for solving the steering problem with the wheel extended and retracted.