110" TIMBER Assembly Thread

[AKNick]

Nick how did you come up with the 0.019 gap.

divine intervention LOL. Good question. The range is supposed to be 0.018-0.020" per DA and DLE manuals. I always gap to 0.019"

 

[320CKA]

Still trying to solve mounting the 6.25" Airtops. I found a nice 8mm bolt that fits the Airtop axles, but ends up too loose in the gear mount. My latest idea is cut the head off the bolt, fit 8mm wheel collars, and then use JB Weld to increase the diameter of the bolt area that fits in the gear mount. Any other ideas are appreciated.

 

[AKNick]

Still trying to solve mounting the 6.25" Airtops. I found a nice 8mm bolt that fits the Airtop axles, but ends up too loose in the gear mount. My latest idea is cut the head off the bolt, fit 8mm wheel collars, and then use JB Weld to increase the diameter of the bolt area that fits in the gear mount. Any other ideas are appreciated.

How much slop are we talking about here? 8mm and 5/16" are pretty darn close to the same thing. for my 1/4" bolt I cut the head off as well but was able to use bronze bushings to bring the OD up to 5/16" and hysold them to the bolt to create a step down axle of sorts. I think it would be hard to remove a tiny bit of slop, you could attempt to wax the bolt, and JB weld/hysol it inside the axle and then tap it out once it cures. Might work... might be permanent. The 6-32 grub screws are fairly large and should do a good job keeping the axle in place. Another Idea is to drill two holes through the axel and xcub gear to accommodate a couple bolts. It would be pretty snug this way.

 

[320CKA]

How much slop are we talking about here? 8mm and 5/16" are pretty darn close to the same thing. for my 1/4" bolt I cut the head off as well but was able to use bronze bushings to bring the OD up to 5/16" and hysold them to the bolt to create a step down axle of sorts. I think it would be hard to remove a tiny bit of slop, you could attempt to wax the bolt, and JB weld/hysol it inside the axle and then tap it out once it cures. Might work... might be permanent. The 6-32 grub screws are fairly large and should do a good job keeping the axle in place. Another Idea is to drill two holes through the axel and xcub gear to accommodate a couple bolts. It would be pretty snug this way.

It's got quite a bit of movement -- even with the set screws in. Would not hold up to hard landings, in my opinion. I may look at a 6mm bolt as well (because the Airtops come with a 6mm bearing also) if I can find a bushing to go up from 6mm to 8mm

 

[320CKA]

How much slop are we talking about here? 8mm and 5/16" are pretty darn close to the same thing. for my 1/4" bolt I cut the head off as well but was able to use bronze bushings to bring the OD up to 5/16" and hysold them to the bolt to create a step down axle of sorts. I think it would be hard to remove a tiny bit of slop, you could attempt to wax the bolt, and JB weld/hysol it inside the axle and then tap it out once it cures. Might work... might be permanent. The 6-32 grub screws are fairly large and should do a good job keeping the axle in place. Another Idea is to drill two holes through the axel and xcub gear to accommodate a couple bolts. It would be pretty snug this way.

I found some 6mm to 8mm bushings -- so now I'll search for a 6mm bolt that will work

 

[Snoopy1]

divine intervention LOL. Good question. The range is supposed to be 0.018-0.020" per DA and DLE manuals. I always gap to 0.019"

Ok @AKNick the reason I asked as you I always gaped my plugs at 0.020 but a two engines that no matter how I tuned it could not get rid of the halfway throttle four stroke or rich sound but when I opened the spark plug gap to 0.024 it got rid of it by 95%.

 

[AKNick]

Ok @AKNick the reason I asked as you I always gaped my plugs at 0.020 but a two engines that no matter how I tuned it could not get rid of the halfway throttle four stroke or rich sound but when I opened the spark plug gap to 0.024 it got rid of it by 95%.

I think there is a lot of variables involved with gaping - voltage being a big one, but timing, octane, and compression all play a role. I played with the gap on my DLE35 one time, and I liked it at 0.019" and it stuck with me.

 

[Pilot5p]

Looking at your picture. I have a little advice unless you've already changed it up. You need some more cowl exit air behind the muffler, otherwise you cowl is going to insulate the heat and overheat your engine and possibly make tuning your carb nightmare with hotter than ambient air.
Next is the spark plug. Throw away the DLE plug, they are known to fail. Buy a NGK CM-6 instead. Gap should be around 0.019" +/- 0.001"

Thanks for the advice! I’ll definitely trim up my cowl a little bit more this weekend as that makes sense. As far as the spark plugs go, I picked up a few NGK CM6 plugs up from the auto store down the road a few days ago. Seems like everyone says the same thing about the spark plug DLE supplies. Throw it out haha!

 

[SjtStriker]

Found this quite interesting.. But the slats? They look wierd, dont they? -Very high opening in the back..

https://www.legendhobby.com/product/seagull-models-102-savage-shock-cub-35cc-50cc-sea357y/

 

[Snoopy1]

Thanks to @RC80AK the planning of the new gear for the Timber is almost done. Just a need a couple of dimensions and need to do cad drawing for the bend radius and then all the planning will be done. Then all I have to do is wait for the aluminum to show up and make it.
Please note most of the dimensions will change as the bending radius’s are added in.