110" TIMBER Assembly Thread

[320CKA]

 

[Mark Shelden]

Does anyone have the internal size of the cowl, as I have a 48cc twin, and want to see if it will fit before I purchase the plane.

 

[AKNick]

Does anyone have the internal size of the cowl, as I have a 48cc twin, and want to see if it will fit before I purchase the plane.

Sure thing. I've only seen one twin so far, and it was a DLE40T, the cylinders stuck out the side. Welcome to GSN Mark!!!

View attachment 110826 The cowling is top notch. Painted very well. At the back it’s roughly 8” across by 7.5” high and tapers forward to 6.5” across up to the 3” spinner
View attachment 110827 View attachment 110828 View attachment 110829 View attachment 110830

I measured the cowl on post #33 on page 4. FWIW the VVRC 40cc twin is 8" across cap to cap (angled plugs) and still 7" head to head. The Timber is 8" across at the back of the cowl and tapers forward to about 6.5" in the front. If I do some rude calculations 3" back from the top of the cowl measures 7.25" so could the VVRC actually fit.... boy it's close... will the plug caps stick out the side... Big YES.

 

[SjtStriker]

Hmm, think i have to admit that 56cc is not without some vibrations issues.. -Experiencing screws coming loose and fall out during flight. (Frame holding together well)

Where thinking someting like these may help.. Anyone tried this on gas airplanes before? https://m.aliexpress.com/item/40011...er_id=130054b5031f4eb693219d18b9a971ad&is_c=Y

 

[WMcNabb]

Hmm, think i have to admit that 56cc is not without some vibrations issues.. -Experiencing screws coming loose and fall out during flight. (Frame holding together well)

Where thinking someting like these may help.. Anyone tried this on gas airplanes before? https://m.aliexpress.com/item/40011...er_id=130054b5031f4eb693219d18b9a971ad&is_c=Y

Have not tried before, but was looking at the exact same item just the other day. Think I’ll give them a try.

 

[Snoopy1]

It is not the solution been there done it and back to solid mounting. What happened to me was three things. Fist it helped a lot with the vibration in the plane. Second the motor lost 300 rpm as soon as it was mounted on the isolators. And last you will be buying a new carburetor with in one season, what happens the motor shakes around a lot more but throttle servo is mounting to the fuselage steady so what happens is the carburetor is opening and closing with the motor vibration and the barrel is worn out in no time.

 

[WMcNabb]

It is not the solution been there done it and back to solid mounting. What happened to me was three things. Fist it helped a lot with the vibration in the plane. Second the motor lost 300 rpm as soon as it was mounted on the isolators. And last you will be buying a new carburetor with in one season, what happens the motor shakes around a lot more but throttle servo is mounting to the fuselage steady so what happens is the carburetor is opening and closing with the motor vibration and the barrel is worn out in no time.

Perfect! This response is a great example of why I love this place!!
Thanks so much Snoopy1. Saved me a lot of trials and tribulations!!

 

[FlyingClint]

Guys, I was wondering if any of you other Electric dudes could help me with an issue? I am running the Xpwr 40CC EF motor with Castle Edge HV120amp ESC. I am having motor temp issues! My motor is super hot to the touch after landing and I have already lowered my settings on the ESC quite a bit to get the motor to run cooler, but it still seems TOO hot! I am running the Xoar 21X10 prop and the manual recommends from that down to a 20X10, so I ordered the smaller prop to see if it makes a difference on cooling. I feel like there is plenty of power for the most part, (hopefully the smaller prop doesn't take away too much of the power), but I have to get the cooling down a bit! after about 4.5mins in the air, the motor starts surging a little bit, but I am not sure if that is my Motor, or the ESC, or even a bad, sagging battery. I am running (2) 6s lipos in series in order to achieve the 12s that the motor and ESC need and I did have one pack that kept sagging way too low over the other one, so maybe that is the issue on that part. Anyway, what are yawls thoughts on the motor heat issues?

Thanks!

-Clint

 

[Snoopy1]

I am running a Epwr 40cc , yes you cannot run anything more than 20-10 that is what i am running now. Also made internal ducting from the cowl inlets onto the sides of the motor, And last added the TrueTurn cooling spinner, and added a air deflection plate to the bottom of the fuselage to pull the hot air out. Ever since I made all those upgrades my Cooling problems have disappeared. But one thing you cannot run full throttle for more than 3 minutes continues it will overheat.
It took a lot of work to cool the ESC if look back in the thread you find a bunch of pictures on how the ESC is setup and air directed over the ESC.
If look back in this thread you can find most of the info. Look at pages 32,33 and 34.

 

[FlyingClint]

I am running a Epwr 40cc , yes you cannot run anything more than 20-10 that is what i am running now. Also made internal ducting from the cowl inlets onto the sides of the motor, And last added the TrueTurn cooling spinner, and added a air deflection plate to the bottom of the fuselage to pull the hot air out. Ever since I made all those upgrades my Cooling problems have disappeared. But one thing you cannot run full throttle for more than 3 minutes continues it will overheat.
It took a lot of work to cool the ESC if look back in the thread you find a bunch of pictures on how the ESC is setup and air directed over the ESC.
If look back in this thread you can find most of the info. Look at pages 32,33 and 34.

Cool! thanks for your reply! Do you mind sharing some photos of how you did the cooling inlets and the bottom outlet as well?

Cheers!

-Clint