AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
The tail cone consists of two vacuum molded plastic halves. They will be cut to fit, painted, and glued in place.
Any heat would deform these pieces easily, so they must be painted.
Scale 20cc DHC-2 "Beaver" Kit Build from Moustache Model Works
The tail cone consists of two vacuum molded plastic halves. They will be cut to fit, painted, and glued in place.
Any heat would deform these pieces easily, so they must be painted.
pawnshopmike
Staff member
Looking good brother.
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
Hinged my rudder and elevators to their stabilizers.
As mentioned before I’m using robart pinned hinges instead of CA hinges. Mainly because I like of much more resilient they are with a gas engine.
Didn’t have too many pictures with the rudder because I am going to start to record video and post it on YouTube after some editing. I have quite a bit of fun editing and positing flight videos but recently I’ve been having an itch to start making and adding “How To” videos to my “AKNick” channel. So stay tuned.
For installing pinned hinges, my process goes like this:
Deplete a carbonated beverage of choice. Flip it upside down and smear some petroleum jelly (Vaseline) in your newly created reservoir. Bust out your heat gun of choice and liquify that jelly. Grab a pinned hinge and bend it to its extreme so you can emerge the pin in the liquid jelly. Bend it the other direction and dip it again. Set aside. The petroleum jelly will solidify as it reaches room temperature again. Presto, now you have a fully lubricated and sealed pin to prevent epoxy from going where you don’t want it ho during the next step.
Using 30min Zap Epoxy, I mix it up in a mixing cup with a small plastic dowel used for rod building finishing resin. Use the rod to coat the epoxy inside the hinge holes. Lightly cover one barbed end of the pin by smearing with the mixing rod and insert into one half of the control surface. Do this with all the pins. You should have little to no excess resin. Do the other side and repeat.
For the excess resin I use 99% isopropyl achohol on cut up paper towels and wipe clean.
Deflect the control surface many times while pushing together. Then tape both sides in place, use alignment boards/devices if you have to in order to keep everything flush. Allow sufficient time to cure, then be amazed of how smooth your control surface moves.
As mentioned before I’m using robart pinned hinges instead of CA hinges. Mainly because I like of much more resilient they are with a gas engine.
Didn’t have too many pictures with the rudder because I am going to start to record video and post it on YouTube after some editing. I have quite a bit of fun editing and positing flight videos but recently I’ve been having an itch to start making and adding “How To” videos to my “AKNick” channel. So stay tuned.
For installing pinned hinges, my process goes like this:
Deplete a carbonated beverage of choice. Flip it upside down and smear some petroleum jelly (Vaseline) in your newly created reservoir. Bust out your heat gun of choice and liquify that jelly. Grab a pinned hinge and bend it to its extreme so you can emerge the pin in the liquid jelly. Bend it the other direction and dip it again. Set aside. The petroleum jelly will solidify as it reaches room temperature again. Presto, now you have a fully lubricated and sealed pin to prevent epoxy from going where you don’t want it ho during the next step.
Using 30min Zap Epoxy, I mix it up in a mixing cup with a small plastic dowel used for rod building finishing resin. Use the rod to coat the epoxy inside the hinge holes. Lightly cover one barbed end of the pin by smearing with the mixing rod and insert into one half of the control surface. Do this with all the pins. You should have little to no excess resin. Do the other side and repeat.
For the excess resin I use 99% isopropyl achohol on cut up paper towels and wipe clean.
Deflect the control surface many times while pushing together. Then tape both sides in place, use alignment boards/devices if you have to in order to keep everything flush. Allow sufficient time to cure, then be amazed of how smooth your control surface moves.
WMcNabb
150cc
Excellent tutorial! Thanks for sharing this one.
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
Epoxied the mid tail cone in place. Special care to keep it aligned with the elevators taped at neutral.
Prepping for the fuselage to be covered, I found nowhere in the manual where it talks about cutting the slot for the main landing gear legs. So after some digging I found the exact location and just made a few cuts in the balsa to accept the gear legs. Not rocket science, but wanted to make the cut prior to covering.
Prepping for the fuselage to be covered, I found nowhere in the manual where it talks about cutting the slot for the main landing gear legs. So after some digging I found the exact location and just made a few cuts in the balsa to accept the gear legs. Not rocket science, but wanted to make the cut prior to covering.
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
Busted out the bright yellow ultracote and started to cover my fuselage. Talk about visual progress. Decided to cover it sides first, then top. The bottom will be deep blue and a bit more technical on the cuts to match the livery. The only part that was challenging was the float fittings and the curves from the main cabin door going forward on the liver section. Made a couple incisions be the fittings to make it lay out right without wrinkles. Overall pretty pleased with the outcome. Note that if you roll out the ultracote you can make one cut and it will be used for both sides.
This process is easiest using a low iron temp to start and doing some heat gun touch ups.
This process is easiest using a low iron temp to start and doing some heat gun touch ups.
AKNick
640cc Uber Pimp
Been taking some time to get my scale livery reference points down. Including the beacon! I was able to find the full scale version and scale it down 1:6.3 to find that a 10mm Red diffused LED is perfect. So I got some on the way.
one thing I noticed... my scale lines were not lining up. For the blue belly. Turns out the fitting named “strut” mount is actually a gear mount and should be one bulkhead forward. Small discrepancy for the scale look/form/function.
Of course as I’m at work I just so happen to notice N4794C younger sibling N777DH came out to the ramp for a flight, so I snagged a couple photos for reference that I needed.
one thing I noticed... my scale lines were not lining up. For the blue belly. Turns out the fitting named “strut” mount is actually a gear mount and should be one bulkhead forward. Small discrepancy for the scale look/form/function.
Of course as I’m at work I just so happen to notice N4794C younger sibling N777DH came out to the ramp for a flight, so I snagged a couple photos for reference that I needed.
