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That looks bad. The same thing happened to me when building the Viper. The only way I got rid of it is an adjustable X brace. Similar to what you did i the tail of the Timber. The only thing is this X brace has to be adjustable and made out of rudder pull pull parts. Run the X brace from close to the rear to up to or close to the wing tube . Pull it tight and start adjustable until it is level and square. The tension will scare you but it works.
Well this was a major pain in the butt. I ended up tearing the top skin off after seeing the planes lower skin was aligned and when twisting the top skin into place it would enhance the twist. After conversing with other people who are building this model found they had similar issues. They all wished they fitted the sheets and bulkheads before any glue was added. The manual misleads you a bit by glueing the sheets in place but make no mistake dry fit every bulkhead in place and keep the horiz stab alighted with the wing tube the whole time.
Before
Checking over the plans
Ripping the skin off
What was once beautiful is now ugly
Don’t mind my method the madness, but the paint can provide the flex I needed to glue everything in place. Don’t worry it’s basically empty
You can see how I hade to adjust the slots to fit the top skin without placing.
Glued in place.
It took me a couple days to figure it out. Still not perfect with the bows, but I can work with that.
installed blind nuts for the tailwheel mounting bracket. Fit like a glove. Made sure they didn’t bottom out by tapping them into a slightly larger hole below the board it’s on. They nestle into the lower fuse frame and everything just fell into place beautifully.
I wetted the sides to allow for a slight radius contour of the bulkhead. Otherwise you’ll surely break the light ply bulkhead.
Very light clamping pressure.
Added the canned bulkhead after a little trimming. And added a few personal touches with some gussetts
Now this means the skeleton frame is completed! Few!!!
It was thoughtful and I though down right cool for them to supply you with preformed sheet ply to go around the belly corners.... well mostly... all of mine were cracked. Could have been from shipping I’m sure. Not a big deal, a little bit of CA and it was fixed.
The manual has you measure and get an idea of where the fittings pop out. I was primitive and laid the sheet up against the mating side, rolled it onto the fittings, pressed them in place, cut out the imprints starting small and opening them out to fit in place. It’s not perfect but it worked for me.
I glued everything down except the upper forward side and end. Here I soaked the balsa to allow it to bend with the radius without cracking. I was looking at the manual and even noticed a crack from the fitting to the radius. Mine started to on the first sheet, but was able to not make it crack too far and then proceeded to wet it.
For the forward cheeks I soaked them in windex (with ammonia in it) and they were able to bend like a wet noodle.
Fun fact, CA will cure to the wood in a wet environment no problem.
Fitted and glued in the lower aft corner skins. They fit pretty nice, I had to wet one to get it to make the bend without cracking.
The fuselage top corners is part of a balsa tree. You start by sanding the plywood sides to match the bulkhead bevel. Took a while. I need some heavier grit sandpaper to make that job enjoyable... only had 220 to sand ply...
Once that looks good just added some medium CA as quickly as I could and pressed it all in place.
Pressing the sheet to make an indent on the back side to mark and trim to fit
Trimming
Lining up the seams
More trimming
Bottoms up! I’m mean done!
Top right corner beveled to match the bulkhead
Balsa tree in place
Most of the balsa carved off the tree I just glued
Ready for shaping the top corners, looking mighty fine at this point.
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