IMAC new to me dalton 260/300, just want to fly it!!!

[IMAC FANATIC]

Ive used epoxy mixed with lead shot and added it to the angles in the cooling baffles with success before, but the prop weight from vess is more functional weight. Id go that route before moving the motor forward or the hassle of pull pull modification. Would mess up the lines of a really pretty plane.

 

[IMAC FANATIC]

A tru turn aluminum spinner would add a few oz to the nose with no weight penalty,

Pardon.. meant to say WRE prop weight like mentioned before, vess is just a balancer, I did notice slower spool up w/ weight.. same eventual rpm, just slower getting there , like 2 full seconds slower to max rpm, thats why I added the shot epoxy to cowl and its never stressed or cracked around the holes.

At least your in a position to add weight instead of pulling hair trying to find a way to remove it.

 

[Pistolera]

If you have the rudder servos in the tail, then a pull-pull setup should solve your problem easily, without adding any weight. I'm not sure why some folks don't like P-P?....I've never had an issue on any of my planes. Use good quality cable and if they stretch at all, it'll only be once.....tighten and go!

 

[Bunky.F.Knuckle]

orthobird;16900 wrote: not much, very little, but i can tell, it will fly better with more nose weight. also, landing, it wanted to flare easily.

Go with an aluminum spinner if at all possible. The extra weight of the spinner "should" counteract the tailheaviness issue. If that doesn't, I would space out engine out approx 1/8". You would be moving the most weight even further FWD, and that probably would be best. I prefer a nice tight cowl to spinner gap, but sometimes, CG dictates what goes on, without having to add dead weight.



You haven't said what size packs you are running? Just curious....

 

[IMAC FANATIC]

Pistol, I hear ya on the pull pull. Its a great system with outstanding leverage, I guess when I did my conversion from tail servoes to pull pull it was a bear because the airframe wasnt designed for it so alot of thought ( not my stongest point) bracing, repair , patching and fabrication went into it for strength, a wood and monokote frame is much more adaptable and kinder medium to work with for sure.

 

[orthobird]

i have a very easy solution for my problem. right now, there is a 1/4" thick plywood mount between the DA 150 and the motor firewall. then, behind the firewall, there is a 1/4" thick aluminum back support. the aluminum weighs 2 ounces and the plywood mount weighs 1.3 ounce. what i can do is obtain a 4" by 4" steel plate that is 1/4" thick, use this in the front between the motor and the firewall. this will also help dissipate heat???, (maybe), then, i can use a back support of 1/8" steel that is 4 by 4", this will add about 1 pound and 10 ounces. i have calculated i need 1 pound and 8 ounces in the nose to make her even. by doing this, it will not move the motor forward, i will still have a nice spinner gap, i will not have to change the baffles, and i will not have to move the rudder servos. it is, however, adding dead weight. but, i consider the fact that this airplane before had a 3w 157 in it, that weighs 1.5 pounds more than the da 150L. so that airplane flew great with that setup and that weight, and it won contests, as far as i am aware. so i am sure it was well balanced like that.

 

[orthobird]

orthobird;17051 wrote: i have a very easy solution for my problem. right now, there is a 1/4" thick plywood mount between the DA 150 and the motor firewall. then, behind the firewall, there is a 1/4" thick aluminum back support. the aluminum weighs 2 ounces and the plywood mount weighs 1.3 ounce. what i can do is obtain a 4" by 4" steel plate that is 1/4" thick, use this in the front between the motor and the firewall. this will also help dissipate heat???, (maybe), then, i can use a back support of 1/8" steel that is 4 by 4", this will add about 1 pound and 10 ounces. i have calculated i need 1 pound and 8 ounces in the nose to make her even. by doing this, it will not move the motor forward, i will still have a nice spinner gap, i will not have to change the baffles, and i will not have to move the rudder servos. it is, however, adding dead weight. but, i consider the fact that this airplane before had a 3w 157 in it, that weighs 1.5 pounds more than the da 150L. so that airplane flew great with that setup and that weight, and it won contests, as far as i am aware. so i am sure it was well balanced like that.

looks like my plan has worked!!! i will fly it tomorrow and see what happens!!!

 

[IMAC FANATIC]

Good solution and kinda hard to consider it dead weight when it supports the engine also.thats what I dig about this stuff, feels pretty good when you find the answer. Usefull dead weight at minimum lol now go fly that thing !

 

[orthobird]

IMAC FANATIC;17585 wrote: Good solution and kinda hard to consider it dead weight when it supports the engine also.thats what I dig about this stuff, feels pretty good when you find the answer. Usefull dead weight at minimum lol now go fly that thing !

thank you!! worked out great!! i removed the plywood in the front and the aluminum in the back and weighed it= 2.8 ounces. then i weighed the front and back steel plates, = 30 ounces.



net of adding on 27 ounces, which equals about 1 pound and 11 ounces. this is awesome!!! i did re-look at the throttle linkage, and did have to make a minor adjustment to end points, but now i am thrilled to see how she will fly again!!! i am willing to bet money she will be a star!!

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[orthobird]

this bird fits in my SUV!!! as long as i remove the spinner, she fits!!

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