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Pilot RC 122" Extra 330SC

stangflyer

I like 'em "BIG"!
I'm half blind, but I didn't see hard points for the control horns, nor pockets for the servos. @Spats ? :)

It does have a very beefy rudder servo tray for the pull/pull rudder servos.
Well here's the thing. The 37% Edge had them. I used them. My 260, did not. Course it's an original SD. Yet the 40% Yak does not either. Going to build them in when I finally get started on the recover/restore project. Perhaps Randy can enlighten us a little??!!??
 

Terryscustom

640cc Uber Pimp
Started on the pull/pull, it's not going all that fast. If you go push/pull like Spats you're also going to have to take some time to put in hard points and servo pockets... Spats probably has that down to a science, though. :) The whole rudder servo setup could use some refinement, imo, for a fast installation that works well.

Your going to be really peeved when you see how the geometry is with their rudder G10 is with pull pull. (Insert smiley guy eating popcorn emoticon)

I can still hear Dave Sullivan swearing at them on the phone in the colorful way that is Dave LOL. He sent me some dims and we cut some new horns that he's been using, not sure if he's close to you or if he still has any.
 
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Spats

100cc
If you are dropping in an SWB rudder servo tray, the existing wood tray needs to be cut out down the middle. If you go pull/pull the stock rudder control arms will not give you full throw of the rudder. That's one reason I like the push pull. On my last extra I went with pull/pull and I am regretting it. I will probably change it to push/pull. For me I really notice the difference when I fly. I need all the help I can get to fly half way decent:spongebob:
 

Joe Hunt

150cc
If you are dropping in an SWB rudder servo tray, the existing wood tray needs to be cut out down the middle. If you go pull/pull the stock rudder control arms will not give you full throw of the rudder. That's one reason I like the push pull. On my last extra I went with pull/pull and I am regretting it. I will probably change it to push/pull. For me I really notice the difference when I fly. I need all the help I can get to fly half way decent:spongebob:

I seen you doing those 3D snaps on the deck... can't kid a kidder. haha

I need to go pull/pull because of four elevator servos and the tuned pipes. So, I'm going to have to sort it out. The AW planes are five minutes tops, done. This is going to take a little time. But, I've done a 100 of them, it'll come out fine. :)
 

Terryscustom

640cc Uber Pimp

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Spats

100cc
The composite material that control horns are made of. Like this:

Terry, Those are the ones you make correct? I have made some of my own but I'm never happy with them. Can I buy a dozen of those from you? I think you made some rudder ones for Planebender, I would like some of those also if possible.
 

Terryscustom

640cc Uber Pimp
Terry, Those are the ones you make correct? I have made some of my own but I'm never happy with them. Can I buy a dozen of those from you? I think you made some rudder ones for Planebender, I would like some of those also if possible.

We can cut some for you for you of what I did for Dave. Would you like some for the rest of the plane too? I just need some dims that you could easily supply for me. Here is the pic of the ones I just made for my 125" MXS project. I just put two holes per horn so that the inner holes work for the tail surfaces an inboard aileron servos an the outside hole will be for the outer aileron. Obviously there is a base plate that joints the horns ala arf style. I also make rudder tiller horns in any width you may need.

If you ever want horns All I need is the dimension from the center of the mounting block to the center of the hinge line (reach) an from the mounting surface to the holes (height). They are CNC cut so I can get down to the gnats ass.
 

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