3D Viper-ST 100-120cc scratch build......it continues!

[Terryscustom]

Next, test fit the fuse side assemblies and ensure that all areas fit snug and tight. If there is something that does not fit correctly due to glue squeeze out etc. it is important to fix that at this time.

When satisfied, glue the fuse sides in place with wood glue. On this build I used wood glue on the longeron, clamped that portion in place, then glued all formers to the side one at a time with medium CA applied on both sides of the former. Again, no kicker was used.

 

[Terryscustom]

Carefully install the landing gear plate with wood glue but remove ALL glue squeeze out on top and outsides so it will not interfere with the aluminum angle on top. Once that is in place, the vented plates can be installed in front and in back of the landing gear plate.

When glue is dried I hardened these tabs with thin CA. Then cut some 1/2" basswood tri-stock to fit the back side of the firewall as shown. Keep them short enough to fit under the engine box top.

Locate the included aluminum angle gear braces. Rough up the outside of these with 100 or 80 grit sandpaper. Install the aluminum angle brackets and firewall tri stock with epoxy.

 

[BalsaDust]

Amazing 3 more kits cut and this one is almost framed up, and I'm still building a 40 size profile.

 

[Dooinit]

Amazing 3 more kits cut and this one is almost framed up, and I'm still building a 40 size profile.

Terry is not human, at least I don't think

 

[Terryscustom]

Amazing 3 more kits cut and this one is almost framed up, and I'm still building a 40 size profile.

Terry is not human, at least I don't think

Thanks guy's. Sorry for all the "instructional" posts but there are a couple guy's that are looking for kits of this and this will give them a place to come check out the "how to's". Very simple really. Few more posts and the fuse is done:

 

[Terryscustom]

Next I added some tri-stock to the bottom of the engine box and a couple of pieces on the bottom side of the receiver and battery tray. Glue these with wood glue or epoxy only!

Then I assembled the tail section as shown and in the order shown:

 

[Terryscustom]

Test fit and install the fillers behind F-1 that also hold the blind nuts for the cowl. Use good quality blind nuts, not the el-cheapo's from the hobby store. I recommend RTL fasteners or McMaster Carr. Install blind nuts on the back side of F-1 for the bottom four bolts. Install the top two on the inside of the upper two cowl ring holes.

Next test fit and install the fuse upper plate. Wood glue should be used on the longerons and either wood glue or medium CA on the rest AFTER the top plate is installed. Start at the front and pull the front two tabs into place and work your way back towards the tail while clamping. If you are using medium CA on the formers of the top plate, glue on the UNDER SIDE, NOT the top and chase each glue joint with microballons. This makes an extremely strong structure. Once everything is dry it never hurts to put a little thing CA into all the tabs like you would on an ARF build. Do not use kicker on any CA joints. Either microballoons or wait for drying on all these joints.

Lastly add one pc. of try stock to the under side of the front of the top plate and install the engine box top. Tri-stock on the under side of the top is optional.

 

[Dooinit]

Thanks guy's. Sorry for all the "instructional" posts but there are a couple guy's that are looking for kits of this and this will give them a place to come check out the "how to's". Very simple really. Few more posts and the fuse is done:

Don't apologize for the "instructional" posts my friend. You build threads are top notch. Thanks for taking the time to show new builders, like myself, the way!

 

[Terryscustom]

There are two more items to install on the fuselage and I will do that tomorrow. I wanted to make sure I got the engine and cowl test fit tonight in case there are any changes needed (plus I was just a little excited to see it on there).

For cowl installation:
- First I mounted the engine and removed the mufflers.
- Tape the cowl halves together and fit the cowl against F-1 to check the alignment with the engine.
- Sand the back of the cowl accordingly until the spinner lines up like you want it with the back of the spinner. The mounting holes and thrust angle are correct so if it is off make sure you adjust the back of the cowl.
- Next clamp the cowl ring in inside the cowl. Tack it in place with medium CA but STAY AT LEAST 1" AWAY FROM THE COWL SPLIT LINE!! You don't want to accidently glue the cowl halves together.
- After it is tacked, draw a line and use a razor saw to split the cowl ring. Apply another bead of medium CA with microballoons to form a fillet. We will go over this with a large bead of "Goop" later which will ultimately keep the ring in place and hold up to vibration, etc.

 

[Terryscustom]

Next I installed the mufflers, cut the cowl for the mufflers and installed for a final test run. PLENTY of room for plug caps, Jtec "slick" compacts also fit nicely. I'm not 100% sure the DLE120 stock mufflers will fit because they make them extremely long and pointy at the top. They would be extremely close but may fit. I plan to install a DLE120 in another one and will post those findings later this Winter, however I've not been extremely happy with the quality of the stock mufflers on the DLE. I may see if Jtec has an option for them.

Couple more small parts to install in the fuselage and it is DONE. Time to call it a day.