110" TIMBER Assembly Thread

[FlyingClint]

It is always satisfying when you eventually get it to work the way you believe it should. Nice job.
I am still looking for a nice pair of wheels for my Timber, but still looking but not for big 8 inch balloon tiers, just something better than came with the kit.

thanks! It was a lot of work and tons of readjusting, but so happy with it!
You should check out the 7” airtops. That’s what I am using and they look very scale with the 6” Dubro rims in them.

 

[320CKA]

AKNick with your 2" servo arms on the wing, and the servo arm centered, the control rod is not 90 degrees to the hinge line. Is this how you set it up? I know you mentioned something about 'equal distance'. Still learning here.

 

[Das_Stig]

Control horns all in -- getting ready to mount servos etc. AKNick I'm going with 2 inch arms on the wing, and 3.5 inch offset rudder arm. That's what worked for you correct? 1.5" ok for elevators? Is the consensus that the wing attach blind nut needs to be re-glued?
Thanks
Brad

Nick's setup is how to do it. I also went with the 3.5" offset arm for the rudder with crossed cables. Nice and easy setup.

 

[Snoopy1]

thanks! It was a lot of work and tons of readjusting, but so happy with it!
You should check out the 7” airtops. That’s what I am using and they look very scale with the 6” Dubro rims in them.

What do you mean by 7 airtops with Dubro rims are you not using the rims that come with the airtops? Please explain.

 

[AKNick]

AKNick with your 2" servo arms on the wing, and the servo arm centered, the control rod is not 90 degrees to the hinge line. Is this how you set it up? I know you mentioned something about 'equal distance'. Still learning here.

Well you have four goals.
1: full deflection flaps
2: 3D rates
3: the ailerons and the flaps moving at the same rate of travel.
4: geometry for the best torque.

You achieve 1-4 by using 1.75” servo arm on the flaps and ailerons.

If you use 1.5” you loose torque, flap deflection, geometry. If you use 1.5 on the ail and 1.75 on the flaps you loose symmetry as one will always be traveling at a different rate as the other which is not ideal for full span ailerons.

So adjust your end points so they are equal deflection. The use a curve to match and mix throughout the travel if necessary. Adjust your rates as necessary from there.
Also the control horn is so far away from the servo bay making this happen... poor design really.

Does that make more sense?

 

[320CKA]

Nick's setup is how to do it. I also went with the 3.5" offset arm for the rudder with crossed cables. Nice and easy setup.

I've got all the same hardware and am setting up now. Just want to make sure that it is ok to have the aileron/flap pushrod not 90 degrees to the hinge line and servo arm. I have the servo arm parallel to the hinge line, but the rod is not 90 degrees. I can post a pic if needed. Just never set one up this way...MAJOR THROWS!!

 

[320CKA]

Like This?

 

[AKNick]

View attachment 115069

Like This?

Yup! That how all 3D planes should be setup. You have better geometry at deflection where the torque is needed more.


Your extreme flight arm has four hole adjustments whereas mine only has three. So yours maybe just a tad longer than mine. Mine is measured at 1.75” in my picture.

 

[320CKA]

Thanks first model that I have used Savox servos in. These are fast and powerful, but they are definately not smooth and quiet!

 

[AKNick]

Thanks first model that I have used Savox servos in. These are fast and powerful, but they are definately not smooth and quiet!

Yeah Savox servos tend to be pretty vocal. My 2274's in my timber are pretty quiet and smooth. 1270's are the social butterflies of my fleet.