Welcome To GiantScaleNews.com

GSN is the BEST in an RC online community. Less corporate BS and more down home fun. Better conversations with REAL RC'ers. Don't settle for the biggest when you can have the best!
  1. If you are new to GiantScaleNews.com, please register, introduce yourself, and make yourself at home.

    We're 1st in Giant Scale RC because we've got the best membership on the internet! Take a look around and don't forget to register to get all of the benefits of GSN membership!

    Welcome!

89" SkyWing Laser 260 V2 Assembly Thread

Discussion in 'Giant / Scale ARF Build Threads' started by AKNick, Sep 2, 2020.

  1. anaign

    anaign New to GSN!

    5
    8
    3
    Austria
    Hi Nick,
    I understand you, sorry I just made a Thingivers account and sent you a PayPal donation for the Air Dams 89 SkyWing Laser Tunnel. Thank you for this fit perfectly, see picture in the attachment.
    If you send the "baffles" to me exclusively aigner.a@a1.net I will send another PayPal donation.
    regards
    Andreas
     

    Attached Files:

    WMcNabb, AKNick and pawnshopmike like this.
  2. AKNick

    AKNick 640cc Uber Pimp

    2,709
    4,482
    113
    Alaska
    That is very kind of you Andreas. Pictures alone give me joy!
    -Nick
     
    WMcNabb and anaign like this.
  3. AKNick

    AKNick 640cc Uber Pimp

    2,709
    4,482
    113
    Alaska
    Another photo dump. Mounted the canister! Woot woot! Not sure why, but my jungle green canister mounts bring me bountiful joy.

    Lapped the 2:1 flange mounts lightly, surface prepped with isopropyl, light smear of copper RTV, longer bolts with nordlocks and some more copper RTV on the clean threads as my thread locker.

    marked the location of the Teflon coupler to both inputs so I would maintain a gap in between the two for expansion. Heated the Teflon up with a heat gun to help the knurling seal into the Teflon and then put the clamps on.

    As for the canister mounts, they were put in place with some clear RTV and clamped down to cure. This way I will be able to remove them if I ever wanted to down the road.

    I had a former in the back that was having a bad hair day, so I spruced it up! Literally.... with spruce that was painted and epoxied to it. LOL

    Oh I do love some good Progress!!

    FDE7F07B-0484-4A02-8780-A62083D31155.jpeg C64E6CDD-BB64-4A28-AE73-878C5466462D.jpeg 788E064E-59EB-44F9-A6C9-83AB8C30C495.jpeg CC508C79-0141-4FB4-9BE5-F5532C640505.jpeg EDED787D-BC16-4F0C-9994-FDF7F73FFBFA.jpeg D8C58282-9984-4F63-8CA4-EEC74321F709.jpeg 740905A7-9494-4074-BE60-57C8B13F50E1.jpeg 464DAE12-D21B-4C11-B0CB-774DFB1035C7.jpeg 08E412AA-CC3C-48B3-A1D8-EDC53ADB9DE3.jpeg A86BE25D-D39E-449F-81A5-588B28C382EB.jpeg E5E30D99-0511-410E-8BD7-18DA6A16B70A.jpeg 9A799F23-B8FE-4C65-A06C-0368A62A3383.jpeg C60EB134-51F9-4AF8-A4D6-6A0BFFC59283.jpeg 2D5CE914-68CD-4FBA-B754-A54D92CDBDF7.jpeg 20B61670-82D5-41E1-9EA8-22663F04D00D.jpeg F7893296-011A-43A8-8A35-450F59281AEF.jpeg C91D6432-571E-4837-9748-F275DE40C33E.jpeg 5A26CA00-C139-47EB-865E-9A6D26929C6D.jpeg 87D6C1B6-3741-494F-B192-81AE72D8FDD5.jpeg 6CA96ACF-5218-4AF8-9574-4658EA595BBC.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Dec 22, 2020
    WMcNabb, anaign and pawnshopmike like this.
  4. Beautiful job brother. Looks awesome. And yes, that Jungle Green is a nice color. Especially for a rattle can.
     
    AKNick likes this.
  5. AKNick

    AKNick 640cc Uber Pimp

    2,709
    4,482
    113
    Alaska
    Thanks Mike! Krylon Fusion is good stuff. Super easy to work with.
     
  6. AKNick

    AKNick 640cc Uber Pimp

    2,709
    4,482
    113
    Alaska
    @anaign I have not forgotten about the baffles. I’ve been busy with other things and just now finished my mesh errors that were driving me nuts. I also added some info to the baffles to signify what they are designed for and by whom (me!).

    next I need to reprint and see how it turned out. Hopefully it’s not the last thing you have to do to the plane!

    edit: still minor mesh fixes.

    image.jpg
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2020
    WMcNabb and anaign like this.
  7. AKNick

    AKNick 640cc Uber Pimp

    2,709
    4,482
    113
    Alaska
    Screwed my air dams in place with a bit of clear silicone and clamped them in place. Let it sit overnight and took the clamps off.
    Link to the AirDams I made: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4688662/files
    3950D318-C082-4B3B-9917-D9C6E1A8EFF2.jpeg 2E7008F4-554D-4415-B43A-EB24A5EC39FA.jpeg 7DFBB50E-9F7F-4AB0-A18B-2D649268B96E.jpeg B5DE01FA-63D1-41E5-A979-D35B5E214971.jpeg 88B6C64A-8290-4ED5-9849-D7E069F9D31C.jpeg 89C43DA1-8A65-4CCB-B30E-7A0BD59C6575.jpeg 2ECB8914-8282-480E-B8A5-6ACBA4EEA026.jpeg

    One thing that bugged me with my 91ARS is the flex in the fuel tank tray when strapped down. So I put a piece of spruce down underneath to give it a bit of rigidity and epoxied it in place.

    59DA542C-059C-4944-968E-B377832423D5.jpeg FEA25856-5C75-40B6-9484-9D0CDBF01503.jpeg
     
    Last edited: Dec 23, 2020
    -Rick- and pawnshopmike like this.
  8. AKNick

    AKNick 640cc Uber Pimp

    2,709
    4,482
    113
    Alaska
    Attached my Futaba temp telemetry sensors the the back side of the cylinder wall.

    used a piece of silicone fuel tubing to act as a tensioner by pulling it towards the cylinder with some twine thus pushing the sensor against the cylinder. I added some copper RTV to just behind the sensor before pulling it in. Note that I intentionally did not add any to the sensor itself so it doesn’t act like an insulator. Once in place I added a tiny bit more RTV to help secure everything nicely and cleaned it up with Q-Tips.

    FC3D7D0F-D571-4553-B390-ACA51990D589.jpeg D85DDCD1-AC94-47DA-868A-40C1D321C264.jpeg A8E78495-FC02-49A6-988B-5806FDECD871.jpeg 8D39162F-7A7D-4EEC-B1C7-D272B7281090.jpeg CBBCBE93-BE3C-4D70-9607-10A98A2F2FF4.jpeg 66CE2F56-DDD0-4EBD-BAEB-25240F7CE8A2.jpeg
     
    pawnshopmike, WMcNabb and -Rick- like this.
  9. AKNick

    AKNick 640cc Uber Pimp

    2,709
    4,482
    113
    Alaska
    Skipped over talking about to e throttle servo. I used a ProModeler DS305CLHV for this. I actually had one bad from stock, so that one was sent back. Just so happened to have another one and it’s just fine. Wierd.

    I used dubro 2-56 ballinks for 4-40 rods with a Secraft rod. The GP76 throttle arm is for a 2mm so I just oversized it slightly.
    Instead of using a mechanical curve, I went with a linear curve. This means the butterfly and the throttle were at the midpoint when setup. At 100% end points the butterfly hits each stop. It takes some tinkering to get it right, but it’s getting the most linear movement from the servo.
    9257DEEE-9B17-4A4F-B713-8DE4F1AEB63F.jpeg 8D318345-04CF-40A9-A20F-B79C37DBDF9B.jpeg 8E82D680-7991-4FD7-91CA-8407461F1361.jpeg 5489FBD5-03AD-4A0C-A4D2-F95CF489E930.jpeg C579505A-6D9B-4741-87E1-6E548BE7B741.jpeg 93569E96-D786-4951-995D-74BCD0544963.jpeg 7A8A89AC-FB6F-4C99-A3FF-E437DD879D2C.jpeg 8F7D0897-94A1-4414-AD59-15EBB4E3EA5D.jpeg 8C5EF8EA-E8AA-46F7-863B-2197AE08BD8C.jpeg
     
    anaign, -Rick-, WMcNabb and 1 other person like this.
  10. AKNick

    AKNick 640cc Uber Pimp

    2,709
    4,482
    113
    Alaska
    Posted my Baffles on Thingiverse! Now anyone who has a printer can download and make my design for themselves! (Here ya go @anaign !)

    My only request is that you send/post pics of your printed part to me/here/thingiverse so I can see them in use to bring me some joy. If you are beyond ecstatic that you're not paying someone $40-60 for a set of custom 3DP baffles, feel free to send me a paypal tip for what ever amount you have set in your heart - No demands here. If you'd like a set printed in PLA - I can make that happen for you. If you'd like to make them for someone else, I'd ask you contact me first as the creative copyright claim is non-commercial use.

    The updates I've made to the original green baffles that I made include lettering, thinned and cleaned up CAD, small hexagonal tapered and extruded indentations on the inner flange to act like small barbs for the glue. All of this resulted in a faster print time by an overall 30 min. The downside is during that process the walls are not completely even and you'll see some strange indentations. . . it's not your printer... its my doing. The baffles come in at 1.45oz combined.

    When you install them, note that the fiberglass cowling when molded creates some irregularities eg: fiber lay up that sticks up higher as well as excess resin. You'll need to trim that stuff down a bit. The other thing to note, is you'll want a bit of clearance from the cylinder fins, as PLA, PTEG, ABS, HTPLA will all warp if heated at some point above 200F - especially considering how thin these are. I'm not sure how much clearance is needed at this time. Print with 100% infill. Green PLA is KCamel, Blue Winter HTPLA is Proto-Pasta.

    Without Further Ado:
    https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4708584

    IMG_3375.JPG IMG_3671.JPG IMG_3673.JPG IMG_3658.JPG IMG_3371.JPG IMG_E3369.JPG IMG_E3373.JPG
     
    WMcNabb and pawnshopmike like this.
Loading...

Share This Page