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89" SkyWing Laser 260 V2 Assembly Thread

anaign

New to GSN!
Thanks for the link @anaign - from the looks of it, this product is similar to a product here I'm looking into HTPLA from Proto-Pasta in the USA, it requires annealing to crystallize the plastic to create a more heat resilient product. Anything using a higher temp filament will require substantial upgrades to the printer.

Sorry I haven't posted the baffles yet, kinda resisting posting it for free for everyone. I have yet to receive a "tip" from any upload I've ever created which makes me wonder why I do it other than just being a nice guy. :epic:

Hi Nick,
I understand you, sorry I just made a Thingivers account and sent you a PayPal donation for the Air Dams 89 SkyWing Laser Tunnel. Thank you for this fit perfectly, see picture in the attachment.
If you send the "baffles" to me exclusively aigner.a@a1.net I will send another PayPal donation.
regards
Andreas
 

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AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
Hi Nick,
I understand you, sorry I just made a Thingivers account and sent you a PayPal donation for the Air Dams 89 SkyWing Laser Tunnel. Thank you for this fit perfectly, see picture in the attachment.
If you send the "baffles" to me exclusively aigner.a@a1.net I will send another PayPal donation.
regards
Andreas

That is very kind of you Andreas. Pictures alone give me joy!
-Nick
 

AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
Another photo dump. Mounted the canister! Woot woot! Not sure why, but my jungle green canister mounts bring me bountiful joy.

Lapped the 2:1 flange mounts lightly, surface prepped with isopropyl, light smear of copper RTV, longer bolts with nordlocks and some more copper RTV on the clean threads as my thread locker.

marked the location of the Teflon coupler to both inputs so I would maintain a gap in between the two for expansion. Heated the Teflon up with a heat gun to help the knurling seal into the Teflon and then put the clamps on.

As for the canister mounts, they were put in place with some clear RTV and clamped down to cure. This way I will be able to remove them if I ever wanted to down the road.

I had a former in the back that was having a bad hair day, so I spruced it up! Literally.... with spruce that was painted and epoxied to it. LOL

Oh I do love some good Progress!!

FDE7F07B-0484-4A02-8780-A62083D31155.jpeg C64E6CDD-BB64-4A28-AE73-878C5466462D.jpeg 788E064E-59EB-44F9-A6C9-83AB8C30C495.jpeg CC508C79-0141-4FB4-9BE5-F5532C640505.jpeg EDED787D-BC16-4F0C-9994-FDF7F73FFBFA.jpeg D8C58282-9984-4F63-8CA4-EEC74321F709.jpeg 740905A7-9494-4074-BE60-57C8B13F50E1.jpeg 464DAE12-D21B-4C11-B0CB-774DFB1035C7.jpeg 08E412AA-CC3C-48B3-A1D8-EDC53ADB9DE3.jpeg A86BE25D-D39E-449F-81A5-588B28C382EB.jpeg E5E30D99-0511-410E-8BD7-18DA6A16B70A.jpeg 9A799F23-B8FE-4C65-A06C-0368A62A3383.jpeg C60EB134-51F9-4AF8-A4D6-6A0BFFC59283.jpeg 2D5CE914-68CD-4FBA-B754-A54D92CDBDF7.jpeg 20B61670-82D5-41E1-9EA8-22663F04D00D.jpeg F7893296-011A-43A8-8A35-450F59281AEF.jpeg C91D6432-571E-4837-9748-F275DE40C33E.jpeg 5A26CA00-C139-47EB-865E-9A6D26929C6D.jpeg 87D6C1B6-3741-494F-B192-81AE72D8FDD5.jpeg 6CA96ACF-5218-4AF8-9574-4658EA595BBC.jpeg
 
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AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
@anaign I have not forgotten about the baffles. I’ve been busy with other things and just now finished my mesh errors that were driving me nuts. I also added some info to the baffles to signify what they are designed for and by whom (me!).

next I need to reprint and see how it turned out. Hopefully it’s not the last thing you have to do to the plane!

edit: still minor mesh fixes.

image.jpg
 
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AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
Screwed my air dams in place with a bit of clear silicone and clamped them in place. Let it sit overnight and took the clamps off.
Link to the AirDams I made: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4688662/files
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One thing that bugged me with my 91ARS is the flex in the fuel tank tray when strapped down. So I put a piece of spruce down underneath to give it a bit of rigidity and epoxied it in place.

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AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
Attached my Futaba temp telemetry sensors the the back side of the cylinder wall.

used a piece of silicone fuel tubing to act as a tensioner by pulling it towards the cylinder with some twine thus pushing the sensor against the cylinder. I added some copper RTV to just behind the sensor before pulling it in. Note that I intentionally did not add any to the sensor itself so it doesn’t act like an insulator. Once in place I added a tiny bit more RTV to help secure everything nicely and cleaned it up with Q-Tips.

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AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
Skipped over talking about to e throttle servo. I used a ProModeler DS305CLHV for this. I actually had one bad from stock, so that one was sent back. Just so happened to have another one and it’s just fine. Wierd.

I used dubro 2-56 ballinks for 4-40 rods with a Secraft rod. The GP76 throttle arm is for a 2mm so I just oversized it slightly.
Instead of using a mechanical curve, I went with a linear curve. This means the butterfly and the throttle were at the midpoint when setup. At 100% end points the butterfly hits each stop. It takes some tinkering to get it right, but it’s getting the most linear movement from the servo.
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AKNick

640cc Uber Pimp
Posted my Baffles on Thingiverse! Now anyone who has a printer can download and make my design for themselves! (Here ya go @anaign !)

My only request is that you send/post pics of your printed part to me/here/thingiverse so I can see them in use to bring me some joy. If you are beyond ecstatic that you're not paying someone $40-60 for a set of custom 3DP baffles, feel free to send me a paypal tip for what ever amount you have set in your heart - No demands here. If you'd like a set printed in PLA - I can make that happen for you. If you'd like to make them for someone else, I'd ask you contact me first as the creative copyright claim is non-commercial use.

The updates I've made to the original green baffles that I made include lettering, thinned and cleaned up CAD, small hexagonal tapered and extruded indentations on the inner flange to act like small barbs for the glue. All of this resulted in a faster print time by an overall 30 min. The downside is during that process the walls are not completely even and you'll see some strange indentations. . . it's not your printer... its my doing. The baffles come in at 1.45oz combined.

When you install them, note that the fiberglass cowling when molded creates some irregularities eg: fiber lay up that sticks up higher as well as excess resin. You'll need to trim that stuff down a bit. The other thing to note, is you'll want a bit of clearance from the cylinder fins, as PLA, PTEG, ABS, HTPLA will all warp if heated at some point above 200F - especially considering how thin these are. I'm not sure how much clearance is needed at this time. Print with 100% infill. Green PLA is KCamel, Blue Winter HTPLA is Proto-Pasta.

Without Further Ado:
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:4708584

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