stang, thank you so much, that makes sense! i have two IBEC, each one is plugged into its own port in the central box 200. that would account for the increased Mah consumption i am seeing compared to my 120" extra with the da 170. i do not use a separate battery pack for the ignition.
IMAC Dalton 300 ml build thread.
- Thread starter orthobird
- Start date
great question. to be honest with you, i have not yet touched those needles, and so far, she is running so well, i would be afraid to mess with them.
Mikeq
150cc
Hopefully Cam you'll never have any issues...been considering a four cylinder in the future and just wondered how one would adjust the needles..I assume, after the engine is broke in, it needs to be leaned out a little you would have to adjust both carburetors the same...
i just added 1.5 ounces to the tail.
I have noticed, on the maiden, i had to add 5 clicks of up elevator, granted, i am using a high servo resolution set up.
then, i changed out the stab tubes from CF to aluminum with hardwood core. this added 2 ounces to the tail.
on the next flight, i ended up removing two clicks of the up elevator, to fly level, so now, we are at +3 clicks up elevator from the stab natural incidence.
Ok, 1st few flights, when it was the CF stab tube, on downlines, the airplane would pull out quick.
this required about a 5% downline throttle to elevator mix.
i have also set up knife edge mixes based off this.
after i changed out the tube, and increased tail weight by 2 ounces,
the downline mix had to be decreased to 2%, and it was flying much better.
ok, now, i added the 1.5 ounces extra to the tail, and i will be interested to see if i will have to remove all together the down line mix.
the reason i am doing all of this is due to this:
in the Sportsman sequence, the 1st figure starts with a 2 point roll and then the Q-loop. during the inverted portion, the airplane immediately will lose altitude, and thus, i have to quickly add a push, to keep her level. well this causes me to work more.
hopefully, now, when i take her up again, i may end up removing the up elevator trim (2 to 3 clicks out), then if i place her inverted, she will fly level, without needing any push.
this will make the 2 point roll look smoother, as well as the push 1/2 Cuban 8, and the Goldfish.
I will keep you all updated after the next flight!!
I have noticed, on the maiden, i had to add 5 clicks of up elevator, granted, i am using a high servo resolution set up.
then, i changed out the stab tubes from CF to aluminum with hardwood core. this added 2 ounces to the tail.
on the next flight, i ended up removing two clicks of the up elevator, to fly level, so now, we are at +3 clicks up elevator from the stab natural incidence.
Ok, 1st few flights, when it was the CF stab tube, on downlines, the airplane would pull out quick.
this required about a 5% downline throttle to elevator mix.
i have also set up knife edge mixes based off this.
after i changed out the tube, and increased tail weight by 2 ounces,
the downline mix had to be decreased to 2%, and it was flying much better.
ok, now, i added the 1.5 ounces extra to the tail, and i will be interested to see if i will have to remove all together the down line mix.
the reason i am doing all of this is due to this:
in the Sportsman sequence, the 1st figure starts with a 2 point roll and then the Q-loop. during the inverted portion, the airplane immediately will lose altitude, and thus, i have to quickly add a push, to keep her level. well this causes me to work more.
hopefully, now, when i take her up again, i may end up removing the up elevator trim (2 to 3 clicks out), then if i place her inverted, she will fly level, without needing any push.
this will make the 2 point roll look smoother, as well as the push 1/2 Cuban 8, and the Goldfish.
I will keep you all updated after the next flight!!
bigblueswope
100cc
Interesting results Ortho. That drop in prop weight will help that balance too.
BJ Swope
BJ Swope
Notorious B.E.N.
100cc
Cam, any tips for sanding the curves on the Leading Edge of the wings?
I sanded one of my down this weekend but I have not rounded it off. Naturally there is less material to round off on the wing tips so I'm thinking of knocking some of the root down carefully and then finishing as one by laying out some sandpaper on my work bench and carefully moving the leading edge back and forth across it until I get the desired shape.
I sanded one of my down this weekend but I have not rounded it off. Naturally there is less material to round off on the wing tips so I'm thinking of knocking some of the root down carefully and then finishing as one by laying out some sandpaper on my work bench and carefully moving the leading edge back and forth across it until I get the desired shape.
During this step, Tony advised me to make the root area of the LE blunt and on the tip, to be sharp.
this is the tip side before sanding it sharp.
this is after sanding down the tip to be sharp.
this is the root side. make it blunt.
for the sanding, i used a very long great planes sanding block. it is about 33" long. with this block, i used the 280 or so grain, and very few light strokes will sand the tip to be sharp like this. Go very slow and check after each stroke. on the root side, i obtained a sheet of the sand paper, again, in 200 range, and very light strokes back and forth, with the paper in the palm of my hand while i cupped the LE.
let me see if i can post more pictures that show this better.